You might like to share the name of the battery, type and search for a serial number, anything to help identify it. Then we could try to talk with the producer, learn exactly what type of innovation. Not all batteries are the exact same. You did not give details of the type of water you utilized.
I would guess your battery has lost the majority of the active material from its plates. Charging at 10s of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have leaded through. A shorted cell. Try checking the acid SG. Auto batteries like to be charged at simply a couple of amps, for a couple of days after being diminished.
( If you think in fairies, attempt some type of renewal.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Uncertain the precise model, I will attempt to get the identifiers Mond when I remove it from the vehicle. The battery charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is used for trickle charging, it does manage the present output to the requirements of the battery.
I think it to be an extremely soft water treated with fluoride. In fact you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I've found out that the Autocraft batteries are sold at Advance Car Components as their brand name. They presently sell a Gold and Silver version no Titanium.
I have actually now check out that various makers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Automobile Parts since no one mfg can produce adequate to supply them - test and recondition car battery. However that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern United States area. Johnson Controls need to have it's name on the battery in question. Also I learnt they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't restore the battery I may make a job out of neutralizing the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and design of it. Craig - This is precisely why we are going over batteries. I looked at the link to the water report. Unfortunately the report is not a true report on the chemical structure of the water, more of a PR workout on lead, and so on.
What I would be interested in is to understand what the alloy remains in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to inform by means of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is relatively fragile. Lead-calcium tends to be more flexible. The negative grids are bound to be lead-calcium (recondition battery).
Count the variety of times you bend and align before it snaps. I have actually done this myself sometimes. Antimony fails well before calcium. The distinction is about 3 times. If the maker used diamond broadened lead sheet, all bets are off. However I would be really surprised. The separators are extremely essential elements.
You may like to determine if the separators are adhering to the negatives, as if lead worked its way into the pores from the negatives. That signifies overcharging. The condition of the positives is critically important (what is in battery reconditioning solution). I think you will discover the grids corroded away in locations and active material has fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has actually been disconnected for a long period of time. A sign of grid corrosion. I doubt you will discover more than an insignificant amount of sulfate. I reside in haiti and everyone here has batteries and inverters in our houses. i simply discovered out that they are utilizing Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to fix this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The reaction in the battery is two-fold. Some of the lead in the plates will enter into solution as lead chloride. Then the chloride is given off as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have actually happened by now. If the odor of chlorine has actually gone and the batteries still work successfully, they will continue working. That is all there is to it. Rather use purified water - in an emergency situation, tap water. Hi How much water for liquifying 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not conserve more energy.
tanks Hey, did you people ever heard of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (certainly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the stage of try out it. I'm rather sure it's not a placebo, measured with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery appears to charge a lot cooler (depending on concentration of it in each cell).
Simply thought it fascinating and wan na share with you men. Afdhal - Yes. I comprised numerous suspensions based upon both conductive triggered and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. A few of the mixtures just settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle down at the bottom, the trick is to include it just after the battery charged up till it gassing strongly, that method, it will stir the electrolyte, preserving the suspension. Giving it an opportunity convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering up the plates, increasing active surface location, lowering internal impedance.
Yup, the disadvantage of it is that it only can be usage when, but hey, it's better than absolutely nothing, right? Afdhal - I attempted a variety of exclusive emulsifying representatives to to keep the carbon suspended. Many did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid however one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - recondition dead battery.
I had a various objective - battery recondition. Jorge- my experience with ingredients is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a total wild-goose chase & is even damaging to battery- the suggested level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the quantity stated by the poster must have been a joke. To dissolve 1 teaspoon, put in a container with lid, include 15 ml water, shake till liquified then put into each cell.
Bevan - Have you tried sodium sulfate? I as soon as make a little battery out of small 1cm lead plates immersed in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, sodium sulfate, and copper sulfate. Of course it gets weaker when besides HSO4 being used, however the result is: * HSO4 being the strongest, slowest to charge, also, the plates seems to be deteriorated rather quickly. * MgSO4 the appearance of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates completely charge-discharge cycle is minimized. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, however also the weakest. * CuSO4 causes the unfavorable plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I question if NaSO4 would indicates faster charging in genuine battery Now, the only sulfate I miss would be cadmium sulfate, I can't discover inexpensive source of it yet. Thus the carbon-additive experiment. All - I also attempted using pencil 'lead' as my carbon for negative electrode (how to recondition a 12v battery). It has the highest brief peak discharge existing.