You might like to share the name of the battery, type and look for a serial number, anything to assist recognize it. Then we might try to speak with the producer, find out exactly what kind of technology. Not all batteries are the very same. You did not give information of the kind of water you used.
I would think your battery has actually lost many of the active material from its plates. Charging at 10s of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have actually leaded through. A shorted cell. Try examining the acid SG. Automobile batteries like to be charged at simply a number of amps, for a couple of days after being run down.
( If you believe in fairies, try some sort of rejuvenation.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Uncertain the specific model, I will attempt to get the identifiers Mond when I remove it from the vehicle. The battery charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is used for drip charging, it does control the present output to the needs of the battery.
I think it to be a really soft water treated with fluoride. In fact you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I have actually discovered out that the Autocraft batteries are offered at Advance Auto Components as their brand. They currently offer a Gold and Silver variation no Titanium.
I've now check out that different makers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Automobile Components due to the fact that nobody mfg can produce enough to supply them - test and recondition car battery. However that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern US area. Johnson Controls should have it's name on the battery in concern. Also I discovered they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't revive the battery I may make a job out of neutralizing the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and design of it. Craig - This is exactly why we are going over batteries. I looked at the link to the water report. Unfortunately the report is not a true report on the chemical structure of the water, more of a PR workout on lead, and so on.
What I would have an interest in is to understand what the alloy is in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to tell by methods of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is fairly breakable. Lead-calcium tends to be more flexible. The unfavorable grids are bound to be lead-calcium (how to recondition any battery).
Count the variety of times you flex and correct the alignment of before it snaps. I have actually done this myself often times. Antimony stops working well prior to calcium. The distinction is about 3 times. If the manufacturer used diamond broadened lead sheet, all bets are off. But I would be extremely stunned. The separators are very important parts.
You may like to ascertain if the separators are adhering to the negatives, as if lead worked its method into the pores from the negatives. That is an indication of overcharging. The condition of the positives is critically crucial (reconditioning a 12 volt truck battery). I believe you will find the grids rusted away in places and active material has fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has been disconnected for a long period of time. A sign of grid deterioration. I doubt you will find more than an irrelevant amount of sulfate. I reside in haiti and everybody here has batteries and inverters in our houses. i just found out that they are using Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to fix this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The response in the battery is two-fold. A few of the lead in the plates will enter into option as lead chloride. Then the chloride is emitted as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have happened by now. If the smell of chlorine has actually gone and the batteries still work efficiently, they will bring on working. That is all there is to it. Rather use purified water - in an emergency situation, faucet water. Hello Just how much water for dissolving 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have actually a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not conserve more energy.
tanks Hey, did you people ever heard of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (obviously) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the stage of explore it. I'm quite sure it's not a placebo, measured with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery appears to charge a lot cooler (depending upon concentration of it in each cell).
Just believed it intriguing and wan na show you men. Afdhal - Yes. I made up numerous suspensions based on both conductive activated and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. A few of the mixtures simply settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does calm down at the bottom, the technique is to include it just after the battery charged up till it gassing strongly, that method, it will stir the electrolyte, maintaining the suspension. Providing it an opportunity convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering the plates, increasing active area, lowering internal impedance.
Yup, the drawback of it is that it only can be usage once, but hey, it's better than absolutely nothing, right? Afdhal - I tried a variety of proprietary emulsifying agents to to keep the carbon suspended. A lot of did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid however one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - reconditioning battery.
I had a various objective - how do you recondition a dead car battery. Jorge- my experience with additives is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a total waste of time & is even harmful to battery- the advised level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the amount specified by the poster needs to have been a joke. To liquify 1 teaspoon, put in a container with lid, include 15 ml water, shake till liquified then put into each cell.
Bevan - Have you attempted sodium sulfate? I as soon as make a little battery out of small 1cm lead plates immersed in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, salt sulfate, and copper sulfate. Obviously it gets weaker when besides HSO4 being utilized, however the result is: * HSO4 being the greatest, slowest to charge, also, the plates seems to be eroded rather fast. * MgSO4 the appearance of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates completely charge-discharge cycle is minimized. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, however also the weakest. * CuSO4 causes the unfavorable plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I wonder if NaSO4 would suggests faster charging in genuine battery Now, the only sulfate I miss would be cadmium sulfate, I can't discover inexpensive source of it yet. For this reason the carbon-additive experiment. All - I likewise attempted utilizing pencil 'lead' as my carbon for unfavorable electrode (auto battery reconditioning). It has the greatest short peak discharge existing.