You may like to share the name of the battery, type and try to find an identification number, anything to help identify it. Then we could attempt to talk to the producer, learn exactly what type of innovation. Not all batteries are the very same. You did not give details of the type of water you used.
I would think your battery has actually lost most of the active product from its plates. Charging at tens of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have actually leaded through. A shorted cell. Try checking the acid SG. Automobile batteries like to be charged at simply a number of amps, for a few days after being diminished.
( If you think in fairies, try some sort of renewal.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Not sure the exact model, I will attempt to get the identifiers Mond when I eliminate it from the vehicle. The battery charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is used for trickle charging, it does manage the existing output to the needs of the battery.
I think it to be a very soft water treated with fluoride. Actually you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I have actually learnt that the Autocraft batteries are cost Advance Vehicle Components as their brand. They presently offer a Gold and Silver version no Titanium.
I've now read that various manufacturers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Auto Components due to the fact that nobody mfg can produce enough to provide them - how do you recondition a dead car battery. But that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern United States area. Johnson Controls ought to have it's name on the battery in question. Likewise I found out they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't revive the battery I may make a task out of reducing the effects of the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and style of it. Craig - This is exactly why we are talking about batteries. I looked at the link to the water report. Unfortunately the report is not a true report on the chemical composition of the water, more of a PR exercise on lead, and so on.
What I would be interested in is to understand what the alloy is in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to inform by means of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is reasonably breakable. Lead-calcium tends to be more malleable. The negative grids are bound to be lead-calcium (recondition 12 volt battery).
Count the number of times you flex and correct the alignment of before it snaps. I have actually done this myself numerous times. Antimony stops working well before calcium. The difference is about three times. If the maker used diamond broadened lead sheet, all bets are off. But I would be extremely stunned. The separators are very crucial parts.
You may like to determine if the separators are sticking to the negatives, as if lead worked its way into the pores from the negatives. That suggests overcharging. The condition of the positives is critically crucial (what is battery reconditioning). I suspect you will find the grids corroded away in places and active product has fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has been detached for a very long time. A sign of grid rust. I question you will find more than an unimportant amount of sulfate. I reside in haiti and everyone here has batteries and inverters in our houses. i simply found out that they are using Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to remedy this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The reaction in the battery is two-fold. Some of the lead in the plates will go into option as lead chloride. Then the chloride is emitted as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have actually happened by now. If the odor of chlorine has gone and the batteries still work efficiently, they will continue working. That is all there is to it. Rather use purified water - in an emergency, tap water. Hello Just how much water for dissolving 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not conserve more energy.
tanks Hey, did you people ever become aware of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (certainly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the stage of experimenting with it. I'm rather sure it's not a placebo, measured with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery appears to charge a lot cooler (depending on concentration of it in each cell).
Simply thought it interesting and wan na share with you guys. Afdhal - Yes. I comprised different suspensions based on both conductive triggered and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. A few of the mixtures simply settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle down at the bottom, the trick is to add it just after the battery charged up until it gassing vigorously, that method, it will stir the electrolyte, maintaining the suspension. Offering it a chance convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering up the plates, increasing active area, minimizing internal impedance.
Yup, the disadvantage of it is that it just can be use when, but hey, it's much better than nothing, right? Afdhal - I attempted a number of proprietary emulsifying agents to to keep the carbon suspended. Most did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid however one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - recondition old battery.
I had a different objective - how to recondition a 12v battery. Jorge- my experience with additives is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a total wild-goose chase & is even damaging to battery- the advised level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the amount mentioned by the poster should have been a joke. To dissolve 1 teaspoon, put in a jar with cover, add 15 ml water, shake till dissolved then put into each cell.
Bevan - Have you tried sodium sulfate? I as soon as make a small battery out of little 1cm lead plates submerged in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, salt sulfate, and copper sulfate. Of course it gets weaker when aside from HSO4 being used, but the result is: * HSO4 being the greatest, slowest to charge, also, the plates seems to be worn down quite quickly. * MgSO4 the appearance of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates completely charge-discharge cycle is lowered. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, but also the weakest. * CuSO4 triggers the unfavorable plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I question if NaSO4 would suggests much faster charging in genuine battery Now, the only sulfate I miss would be cadmium sulfate, I can't find low-cost source of it yet. For this reason the carbon-additive experiment. All - I likewise tried using pencil 'lead' as my carbon for negative electrode (recondition 12 volt battery). It has the highest brief peak discharge existing.