You may like to share the name of the battery, type and search for a serial number, anything to help recognize it. Then we might attempt to speak with the manufacturer, learn exactly what sort of innovation. Not all batteries are the very same. You did not offer details of the type of water you utilized.
I would guess your battery has lost the majority of the active material from its plates. Charging at tens of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have leaded through. A shorted cell. Attempt checking the acid SG. Auto batteries like to be charged at simply a couple of amps, for a couple of days after being diminished.
( If you believe in fairies, attempt some kind of restoration.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Not exactly sure the specific design, I will attempt to get the identifiers Mond when I remove it from the automobile. The battery charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is utilized for drip charging, it does control the current output to the needs of the battery.
I think it to be a really soft water treated with fluoride. In fact you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I've learnt that the Autocraft batteries are offered at Advance Vehicle Parts as their brand. They presently sell a Gold and Silver version no Titanium.
I've now check out that various producers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Car Components due to the fact that no one mfg can produce sufficient to supply them - how to recondition a wore out battery. However that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern United States area. Johnson Controls should have it's name on the battery in question. Likewise I discovered they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't restore the battery I might make a project out of neutralizing the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and style of it. Craig - This is precisely why we are going over batteries. I took a look at the link to the water report. Unfortunately the report is not a true report on the chemical structure of the water, more of a PR exercise on lead, etc.
What I would be interested in is to understand what the alloy remains in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to inform by means of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is reasonably brittle. Lead-calcium tends to be more flexible. The unfavorable grids are bound to be lead-calcium (how to recondition a dead battery).
Count the number of times you bend and straighten before it snaps. I have done this myself sometimes. Antimony fails well before calcium. The difference has to do with three times. If the manufacturer used diamond expanded lead sheet, all bets are off. But I would be extremely shocked. The separators are extremely crucial elements.
You might like to determine if the separators are adhering to the negatives, as if lead worked its way into the pores from the negatives. That suggests overcharging. The condition of the positives is critically crucial (12 volt battery reconditioning). I presume you will discover the grids rusted away in places and active material has actually fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has been disconnected for a long time. An indication of grid corrosion. I question you will discover more than an insignificant amount of sulfate. I reside in haiti and everyone here has batteries and inverters in our houses. i simply discovered out that they are using Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to fix this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The response in the battery is two-fold. A few of the lead in the plates will go into service as lead chloride. Then the chloride is offered off as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have actually happened by now. If the smell of chlorine has gone and the batteries still work efficiently, they will bring on working. That is all there is to it. Rather use purified water - in an emergency, faucet water. Hi Just how much water for liquifying 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have actually a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not conserve more energy.
tanks Hey, did you men ever heard of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (undoubtedly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the phase of exploring with it. I'm rather sure it's not a placebo, determined with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery appears to charge a lot cooler (depending upon concentration of it in each cell).
Simply thought it intriguing and wan na share with you men. Afdhal - Yes. I comprised numerous suspensions based upon both conductive triggered and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. Some of the mixtures just settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does calm down at the bottom, the trick is to include it just after the battery charged up until it gassing intensely, that method, it will stir the electrolyte, maintaining the suspension. Giving it an opportunity convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering the plates, increasing active area, minimizing internal impedance.
Yup, the drawback of it is that it just can be use as soon as, but hey, it's much better than absolutely nothing, right? Afdhal - I tried a number of exclusive emulsifying representatives to to keep the carbon suspended. The majority of did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid but one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - how to recondition a battery at home.
I had a different objective - how do you recondition a car battery. Jorge- my experience with additives is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a complete waste of time & is even damaging to battery- the suggested level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the amount mentioned by the poster needs to have been a joke. To liquify 1 teaspoon, put in a container with cover, include 15 ml water, shake till liquified then put into each cell.
Bevan - Have you attempted salt sulfate? I when make a small battery out of little 1cm lead plates submerged in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, salt sulfate, and copper sulfate. Of course it gets weaker when besides HSO4 being used, but the result is: * HSO4 being the greatest, slowest to charge, also, the plates seems to be worn down quite quick. * MgSO4 the look of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates completely charge-discharge cycle is reduced. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, but also the weakest. * CuSO4 causes the unfavorable plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I question if NaSO4 would implies much faster charging in real battery Now, the only sulfate I miss would be cadmium sulfate, I can't find low-cost source of it yet. Hence the carbon-additive experiment. All - I also tried using pencil 'lead' as my carbon for negative electrode (recondition battery). It has the greatest short peak discharge present.