You might like to share the name of the battery, type and search for an identification number, anything to assist determine it. Then we might try to talk to the producer, find out precisely what sort of technology. Not all batteries are the same. You did not provide information of the kind of water you used.
I would think your battery has lost the majority of the active material from its plates. Charging at 10s of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have leaded through. A shorted cell. Try inspecting the acid SG. Automobile batteries like to be charged at simply a number of amps, for a couple of days after being run down.
( If you believe in fairies, try some kind of renewal.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Not sure the specific design, I will try to get the identifiers Mond when I eliminate it from the car. The charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is used for drip charging, it does manage the existing output to the needs of the battery.
I think it to be a very soft water treated with fluoride. Really you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I've discovered that the Autocraft batteries are cost Advance Vehicle Parts as their brand name. They currently sell a Gold and Silver version no Titanium.
I have actually now check out that different manufacturers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Auto Parts due to the fact that nobody mfg can produce adequate to provide them - battery recondition. However that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern United States region. Johnson Controls should have it's name on the battery in concern. Also I learnt they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't restore the battery I might make a job out of reducing the effects of the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and design of it. Craig - This is exactly why we are discussing batteries. I looked at the link to the water report. Unfortunately the report is not a true report on the chemical structure of the water, more of a PR workout on lead, etc.
What I would have an interest in is to know what the alloy remains in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to inform by ways of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is reasonably breakable. Lead-calcium tends to be more flexible. The negative grids are bound to be lead-calcium (how do you recondition a battery).
Count the number of times you flex and correct the alignment of before it snaps. I have actually done this myself numerous times. Antimony fails well prior to calcium. The difference has to do with 3 times. If the maker used diamond expanded lead sheet, all bets are off. But I would be extremely shocked. The separators are extremely crucial components.
You might like to determine if the separators are sticking to the negatives, as if lead worked its method into the pores from the negatives. That is an indication of overcharging. The condition of the positives is seriously important (reconditioning a 12 volt truck battery). I suspect you will find the grids rusted away in places and active product has actually fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has actually been detached for a long period of time. A sign of grid corrosion. I question you will discover more than an unimportant amount of sulfate. I reside in haiti and everyone here has batteries and inverters in our homes. i just learnt that they are using Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to fix this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The reaction in the battery is two-fold. A few of the lead in the plates will enter into service as lead chloride. Then the chloride is offered off as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have taken place by now. If the smell of chlorine has gone and the batteries still work effectively, they will continue working. That is all there is to it. Rather use cleansed water - in an emergency, faucet water. Hi Just how much water for liquifying 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not conserve more energy.
tanks Hey, did you guys ever heard of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (clearly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the stage of try out it. I'm quite sure it's not a placebo, determined with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery appears to charge a lot cooler (depending on concentration of it in each cell).
Just thought it interesting and wan na show you men. Afdhal - Yes. I comprised numerous suspensions based upon both conductive triggered and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. A few of the mixes simply settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle at the bottom, the technique is to add it just after the battery charged up until it gassing strongly, that method, it will stir the electrolyte, maintaining the suspension. Giving it a chance convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering the plates, increasing active area, minimizing internal impedance.
Yup, the disadvantage of it is that it only can be use as soon as, however hey, it's better than absolutely nothing, right? Afdhal - I tried a variety of exclusive emulsifying representatives to to keep the carbon suspended. Many did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid however one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - how to recondition a car battery.
I had a different objective - how to recondition a battery. Jorge- my experience with additives is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a complete waste of time & is even damaging to battery- the suggested level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the quantity specified by the poster must have been a joke. To dissolve 1 teaspoon, put in a container with lid, include 15 ml water, shake till dissolved then pour into each cell.
Bevan - Have you attempted salt sulfate? I once make a small battery out of little 1cm lead plates immersed in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, salt sulfate, and copper sulfate. Naturally it gets weaker when aside from HSO4 being utilized, however the result is: * HSO4 being the greatest, slowest to charge, likewise, the plates appears to be eroded quite quick. * MgSO4 the look of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates completely charge-discharge cycle is minimized. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, however likewise the weakest. * CuSO4 triggers the negative plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I question if NaSO4 would indicates much faster charging in genuine battery Now, the only sulfate I miss would be cadmium sulfate, I can't find cheap source of it yet. Hence the carbon-additive experiment. All - I also attempted utilizing pencil 'lead' as my carbon for negative electrode (how to restore a car battery). It has the greatest brief peak discharge existing.