You might like to share the name of the battery, type and search for an identification number, anything to assist determine it. Then we might attempt to speak to the producer, learn exactly what kind of technology. Not all batteries are the exact same. You did not offer information of the kind of water you used.
I would think your battery has actually lost most of the active product from its plates. Charging at 10s of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have leaded through. A shorted cell. Attempt inspecting the acid SG. Auto batteries like to be charged at simply a couple of amps, for a couple of days after being diminished.
( If you think in fairies, attempt some sort of renewal.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Unsure the specific model, I will attempt to get the identifiers Mond when I remove it from the cars and truck. The charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is used for drip charging, it does manage the present output to the requirements of the battery.
I think it to be an extremely soft water treated with fluoride. Actually you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I have actually discovered that the Autocraft batteries are offered at Advance Automobile Components as their brand name. They currently sell a Gold and Silver variation no Titanium.
I've now read that different makers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Automobile Parts because nobody mfg can produce adequate to provide them - high frequency battery reconditioning. However that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern US area. Johnson Controls must have it's name on the battery in question. Likewise I discovered they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't revive the battery I may make a project out of neutralizing the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and style of it. Craig - This is precisely why we are going over batteries. I looked at the link to the water report. Unfortunately the report is not a true report on the chemical composition of the water, more of a PR workout on lead, etc.
What I would have an interest in is to know what the alloy remains in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to tell by methods of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is reasonably brittle. Lead-calcium tends to be more flexible. The negative grids are bound to be lead-calcium (how do you recondition a dead battery).
Count the variety of times you flex and correct before it snaps. I have actually done this myself lot of times. Antimony fails well before calcium. The difference is about three times. If the producer used diamond broadened lead sheet, all bets are off. However I would be really stunned. The separators are very important components.
You might like to establish if the separators are sticking to the negatives, as if lead worked its method into the pores from the negatives. That signifies overcharging. The condition of the positives is critically crucial (recondition battery). I suspect you will find the grids rusted away in locations and active product has fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has been disconnected for a very long time. An indication of grid deterioration. I question you will find more than an irrelevant quantity of sulfate. I reside in haiti and everybody here has batteries and inverters in our houses. i simply discovered that they are utilizing Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to correct this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The reaction in the battery is two-fold. A few of the lead in the plates will go into service as lead chloride. Then the chloride is released as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have actually taken place by now. If the smell of chlorine has gone and the batteries still work successfully, they will bring on working. That is all there is to it. Rather use cleansed water - in an emergency situation, tap water. Hi How much water for dissolving 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not save more energy.
tanks Hey, did you guys ever heard of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (clearly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the phase of explore it. I'm rather sure it's not a placebo, determined with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery appears to charge a lot cooler (depending on concentration of it in each cell).
Simply thought it interesting and wan na show you men. Afdhal - Yes. I made up different suspensions based upon both conductive activated and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. Some of the mixes simply settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle at the bottom, the trick is to add it simply after the battery charged up till it gassing vigorously, that method, it will stir the electrolyte, maintaining the suspension. Offering it a chance convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering the plates, increasing active area, reducing internal impedance.
Yup, the drawback of it is that it just can be usage as soon as, however hey, it's better than nothing, right? Afdhal - I attempted a number of proprietary emulsifying representatives to to keep the carbon suspended. A lot of did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid but one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - recondition your old battery.
I had a different goal - 12 volt battery reconditioning. Jorge- my experience with additives is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a total waste of time & is even hazardous to battery- the suggested level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the quantity stated by the poster must have been a joke. To dissolve 1 teaspoon, put in a container with lid, include 15 ml water, shake till liquified then pour into each cell.
Bevan - Have you attempted sodium sulfate? I when make a small battery out of little 1cm lead plates submerged in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, salt sulfate, and copper sulfate. Of course it gets weaker when aside from HSO4 being utilized, but the outcome is: * HSO4 being the strongest, slowest to charge, likewise, the plates seems to be worn down quite quick. * MgSO4 the look of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates completely charge-discharge cycle is decreased. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, however likewise the weakest. * CuSO4 triggers the unfavorable plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I wonder if NaSO4 would indicates faster charging in genuine battery Now, the only sulfate I miss out on would be cadmium sulfate, I can't discover inexpensive source of it yet. For this reason the carbon-additive experiment. All - I likewise attempted using pencil 'lead' as my carbon for negative electrode (recondition a battery). It has the highest short peak discharge existing.