You may like to share the name of the battery, type and try to find an identification number, anything to help identify it. Then we might try to talk to the producer, discover exactly what type of technology. Not all batteries are the same. You did not offer information of the type of water you used.
I would guess your battery has lost most of the active product from its plates. Charging at tens of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have actually leaded through. A shorted cell. Try checking the acid SG. Automobile batteries like to be charged at simply a couple of amps, for a couple of days after being run down.
( If you believe in fairies, try some type of renewal.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Not exactly sure the precise design, I will attempt to get the identifiers Mond when I remove it from the car. The battery charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is used for trickle charging, it does control the existing output to the needs of the battery.
I think it to be an extremely soft water treated with fluoride. Actually you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I've discovered that the Autocraft batteries are cost Advance Automobile Parts as their brand name. They currently offer a Gold and Silver version no Titanium.
I have actually now read that numerous producers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Auto Components due to the fact that no one mfg can produce adequate to provide them - battery reconditioning com. But that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern United States region. Johnson Controls should have it's name on the battery in question. Also I learnt they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't revive the battery I might make a task out of neutralizing the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and style of it. Craig - This is exactly why we are discussing batteries. I looked at the link to the water report. Unfortunately the report is not a real report on the chemical structure of the water, more of a PR workout on lead, and so on.
What I would have an interest in is to understand what the alloy is in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to inform by ways of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is reasonably breakable. Lead-calcium tends to be more malleable. The unfavorable grids are bound to be lead-calcium (car battery reconditioning).
Count the variety of times you bend and align prior to it snaps. I have done this myself often times. Antimony stops working well before calcium. The distinction has to do with three times. If the manufacturer utilized diamond expanded lead sheet, all bets are off. However I would be extremely stunned. The separators are really important components.
You may like to establish if the separators are adhering to the negatives, as if lead worked its method into the pores from the negatives. That is an indication of overcharging. The condition of the positives is critically important (recondition dead battery). I suspect you will find the grids rusted away in places and active product has actually fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has been detached for a long time. A sign of grid corrosion. I question you will find more than an unimportant amount of sulfate. I reside in haiti and everybody here has batteries and inverters in our homes. i just learnt that they are using Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to remedy this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The response in the battery is two-fold. A few of the lead in the plates will enter into service as lead chloride. Then the chloride is emitted as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have happened by now. If the odor of chlorine has actually gone and the batteries still work efficiently, they will carry on working. That is all there is to it. Rather use cleansed water - in an emergency situation, faucet water. Hello Just how much water for dissolving 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not conserve more energy.
tanks Hey, did you men ever become aware of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (undoubtedly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the stage of experimenting with it. I'm quite sure it's not a placebo, determined with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery appears to charge a lot cooler (depending upon concentration of it in each cell).
Just thought it intriguing and wan na show you men. Afdhal - Yes. I comprised numerous suspensions based on both conductive activated and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. A few of the mixes just settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle down at the bottom, the technique is to include it just after the battery charged up until it gassing vigorously, that way, it will stir the electrolyte, preserving the suspension. Giving it a possibility convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, concealing the plates, increasing active surface location, minimizing internal impedance.
Yup, the drawback of it is that it just can be usage when, however hey, it's better than absolutely nothing, right? Afdhal - I tried a number of exclusive emulsifying agents to to keep the carbon suspended. Many did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid however one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - recondition your old battery.
I had a various objective - recondition a battery. Jorge- my experience with ingredients is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a complete waste of time & is even damaging to battery- the suggested level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the amount mentioned by the poster needs to have been a joke. To dissolve 1 teaspoon, put in a jar with lid, include 15 ml water, shake till dissolved then put into each cell.
Bevan - Have you attempted salt sulfate? I as soon as make a small battery out of little 1cm lead plates immersed in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, salt sulfate, and copper sulfate. Of course it gets weaker when other than HSO4 being used, however the result is: * HSO4 being the greatest, slowest to charge, also, the plates seems to be deteriorated rather fast. * MgSO4 the look of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates completely charge-discharge cycle is reduced. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, but also the weakest. * CuSO4 causes the negative plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I question if NaSO4 would indicates quicker charging in genuine battery Now, the only sulfate I miss out on would be cadmium sulfate, I can't discover low-cost source of it yet. Hence the carbon-additive experiment. All - I likewise attempted using pencil 'lead' as my carbon for negative electrode (how do you recondition a dead car battery). It has the highest short peak discharge present.