You might like to share the name of the battery, type and search for a serial number, anything to assist identify it. Then we might attempt to talk with the maker, discover out precisely what kind of technology. Not all batteries are the same. You did not offer details of the type of water you utilized.
I would guess your battery has actually lost many of the active product from its plates. Charging at tens of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have actually leaded through. A shorted cell. Attempt checking the acid SG. Automobile batteries like to be charged at just a couple of amps, for a few days after being run down.
( If you believe in fairies, try some kind of restoration.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Not sure the precise model, I will attempt to get the identifiers Mond when I eliminate it from the vehicle. The battery charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is used for drip charging, it does control the current output to the requirements of the battery.
I think it to be a very soft water treated with fluoride. Really you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I have actually learnt that the Autocraft batteries are sold at Advance Car Components as their brand name. They presently sell a Gold and Silver version no Titanium.
I have actually now check out that different makers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Car Components because nobody mfg can produce sufficient to supply them - recondition a car battery. However that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern United States area. Johnson Controls must have it's name on the battery in question. Also I learnt they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't restore the battery I may make a job out of neutralizing the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and design of it. Craig - This is specifically why we are discussing batteries. I looked at the link to the water report. Sadly the report is not a true report on the chemical structure of the water, more of a PR exercise on lead, and so on.
What I would be interested in is to understand what the alloy is in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to tell by means of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is reasonably brittle. Lead-calcium tends to be more malleable. The negative grids are bound to be lead-calcium (how to recondition a battery).
Count the number of times you flex and straighten prior to it snaps. I have done this myself sometimes. Antimony stops working well prior to calcium. The distinction has to do with 3 times. If the producer utilized diamond expanded lead sheet, all bets are off. But I would be really surprised. The separators are really important elements.
You might like to ascertain if the separators are adhering to the negatives, as if lead worked its way into the pores from the negatives. That is a sign of overcharging. The condition of the positives is critically essential (how to recondition a dead car battery). I believe you will find the grids corroded away in places and active material has actually fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has been detached for a long period of time. A sign of grid deterioration. I question you will discover more than an insignificant amount of sulfate. I live in haiti and everyone here has batteries and inverters in our homes. i just learnt that they are utilizing Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to correct this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The response in the battery is two-fold. A few of the lead in the plates will go into solution as lead chloride. Then the chloride is produced as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have actually taken place by now. If the odor of chlorine has gone and the batteries still work efficiently, they will continue working. That is all there is to it. Rather use purified water - in an emergency situation, tap water. Hi How much water for dissolving 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have actually a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not save more energy.
tanks Hey, did you men ever heard of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (clearly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the stage of experimenting with it. I'm rather sure it's not a placebo, determined with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery appears to charge a lot cooler (depending upon concentration of it in each cell).
Simply believed it intriguing and wan na share with you people. Afdhal - Yes. I made up different suspensions based upon both conductive activated and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. Some of the mixes simply settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle down at the bottom, the technique is to include it just after the battery charged up until it gassing intensely, that method, it will stir the electrolyte, preserving the suspension. Giving it an opportunity convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, concealing the plates, increasing active area, lowering internal impedance.
Yup, the downside of it is that it only can be usage once, however hey, it's better than nothing, right? Afdhal - I attempted a number of exclusive emulsifying representatives to to keep the carbon suspended. Most did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid however one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - auto battery reconditioning.
I had a various objective - recondition car battery for sale. Jorge- my experience with additives is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a complete waste of time & is even harmful to battery- the advised level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the amount specified by the poster should have been a joke. To liquify 1 teaspoon, put in a jar with cover, include 15 ml water, shake till liquified then pour into each cell.
Bevan - Have you tried sodium sulfate? I once make a little battery out of little 1cm lead plates submerged in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, sodium sulfate, and copper sulfate. Obviously it gets weaker when other than HSO4 being utilized, but the outcome is: * HSO4 being the strongest, slowest to charge, also, the plates seems to be deteriorated rather fast. * MgSO4 the appearance of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates in full charge-discharge cycle is reduced. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, however also the weakest. * CuSO4 causes the negative plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I question if NaSO4 would implies much faster charging in genuine battery Now, the only sulfate I miss would be cadmium sulfate, I can't discover cheap source of it yet. Hence the carbon-additive experiment. All - I also attempted utilizing pencil 'lead' as my carbon for negative electrode (reconditioning car battery). It has the highest brief peak discharge current.