You might like to share the name of the battery, type and try to find an identification number, anything to assist recognize it. Then we might try to talk with the manufacturer, find out exactly what sort of technology. Not all batteries are the exact same. You did not offer details of the kind of water you used.
I would guess your battery has actually lost many of the active material from its plates. Charging at 10s of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have leaded through. A shorted cell. Try checking the acid SG. Auto batteries like to be charged at just a couple of amps, for a few days after being run down.
( If you think in fairies, try some type of rejuvenation.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Uncertain the exact model, I will attempt to get the identifiers Mond when I eliminate it from the vehicle. The charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is utilized for drip charging, it does control the current output to the needs of the battery.
I believe it to be a very soft water treated with fluoride. In fact you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I've learnt that the Autocraft batteries are cost Advance Car Parts as their brand name. They currently offer a Gold and Silver version no Titanium.
I have actually now read that numerous manufacturers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Vehicle Components due to the fact that no one mfg can produce enough to provide them - diy recondition car battery. But that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern US area. Johnson Controls must have it's name on the battery in concern. Also I discovered out they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't revive the battery I might make a project out of neutralizing the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and design of it. Craig - This is precisely why we are going over batteries. I took a look at the link to the water report. Unfortunately the report is not a true report on the chemical structure of the water, more of a PR exercise on lead, and so on.
What I would be interested in is to understand what the alloy is in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to tell by methods of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is reasonably breakable. Lead-calcium tends to be more malleable. The negative grids are bound to be lead-calcium (reconditioning car battery).
Count the number of times you flex and align prior to it snaps. I have actually done this myself often times. Antimony stops working well before calcium. The distinction is about three times. If the manufacturer used diamond expanded lead sheet, all bets are off. However I would be really stunned. The separators are really important parts.
You may like to establish if the separators are adhering to the negatives, as if lead worked its way into the pores from the negatives. That signifies overcharging. The condition of the positives is seriously crucial (recondition battery guide). I think you will find the grids rusted away in locations and active material has actually fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has been disconnected for a long time. A sign of grid corrosion. I question you will discover more than an irrelevant quantity of sulfate. I reside in haiti and everyone here has batteries and inverters in our homes. i simply learnt that they are utilizing Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to correct this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The response in the battery is two-fold. Some of the lead in the plates will go into service as lead chloride. Then the chloride is emitted as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have actually occurred by now. If the odor of chlorine has actually gone and the batteries still work effectively, they will carry on working. That is all there is to it. Rather utilize purified water - in an emergency, tap water. Hello How much water for liquifying 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have actually a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not save more energy.
tanks Hey, did you men ever become aware of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (certainly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the phase of explore it. I'm quite sure it's not a placebo, measured with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery appears to charge a lot cooler (depending on concentration of it in each cell).
Just believed it fascinating and wan na show you people. Afdhal - Yes. I comprised numerous suspensions based on both conductive activated and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. Some of the mixes just settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle down at the bottom, the technique is to add it simply after the battery charged up until it gassing vigorously, that method, it will stir the electrolyte, maintaining the suspension. Providing it a chance convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering the plates, increasing active surface location, decreasing internal impedance.
Yup, the disadvantage of it is that it just can be usage once, but hey, it's much better than nothing, right? Afdhal - I attempted a number of exclusive emulsifying agents to to keep the carbon suspended. A lot of did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid but one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - recondition your old battery.
I had a different goal - what is battery reconditioning. Jorge- my experience with ingredients is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a complete wild-goose chase & is even harmful to battery- the recommended level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the amount mentioned by the poster should have been a joke. To dissolve 1 teaspoon, put in a jar with cover, include 15 ml water, shake till dissolved then pour into each cell.
Bevan - Have you attempted sodium sulfate? I as soon as make a little battery out of small 1cm lead plates submerged in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, sodium sulfate, and copper sulfate. Obviously it gets weaker when other than HSO4 being utilized, however the result is: * HSO4 being the strongest, slowest to charge, likewise, the plates seems to be worn down rather quickly. * MgSO4 the look of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates in full charge-discharge cycle is decreased. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, however also the weakest. * CuSO4 triggers the unfavorable plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I question if NaSO4 would implies faster charging in genuine battery Now, the only sulfate I miss would be cadmium sulfate, I can't discover inexpensive source of it yet. Thus the carbon-additive experiment. All - I also attempted using pencil 'lead' as my carbon for negative electrode (automotive battery reconditioning). It has the greatest short peak discharge present.