You might like to share the name of the battery, type and try to find an identification number, anything to help determine it. Then we might try to speak with the producer, learn precisely what type of technology. Not all batteries are the exact same. You did not provide details of the type of water you utilized.
I would think your battery has actually lost most of the active product from its plates. Charging at tens of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have actually leaded through. A shorted cell. Attempt examining the acid SG. Car batteries like to be charged at simply a couple of amps, for a couple of days after being diminished.
( If you think in fairies, try some sort of rejuvenation.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Unsure the specific model, I will try to get the identifiers Mond when I eliminate it from the cars and truck. The battery charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is utilized for trickle charging, it does manage the existing output to the needs of the battery.
I think it to be a very soft water treated with fluoride. In fact you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I have actually learnt that the Autocraft batteries are offered at Advance Vehicle Parts as their brand. They presently sell a Gold and Silver version no Titanium.
I've now read that various manufacturers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Car Parts because no one mfg can produce sufficient to supply them - high frequency battery reconditioning. But that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern United States area. Johnson Controls need to have it's name on the battery in concern. Likewise I discovered out they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't restore the battery I might make a job out of neutralizing the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and style of it. Craig - This is specifically why we are discussing batteries. I took a look at the link to the water report. Unfortunately the report is not a real report on the chemical structure of the water, more of a PR workout on lead, etc.
What I would have an interest in is to know what the alloy remains in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to tell by methods of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is reasonably fragile. Lead-calcium tends to be more malleable. The negative grids are bound to be lead-calcium (how to recondition a 12v battery).
Count the number of times you bend and straighten prior to it snaps. I have actually done this myself lot of times. Antimony stops working well prior to calcium. The difference has to do with three times. If the producer used diamond expanded lead sheet, all bets are off. But I would be really shocked. The separators are extremely essential parts.
You might like to determine if the separators are sticking to the negatives, as if lead worked its method into the pores from the negatives. That signifies overcharging. The condition of the positives is critically essential (how do you recondition a dead car battery). I believe you will discover the grids rusted away in places and active material has fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has been disconnected for a long time. An indication of grid corrosion. I doubt you will find more than an insignificant amount of sulfate. I reside in haiti and everybody here has batteries and inverters in our homes. i just discovered that they are using Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to fix this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The response in the battery is two-fold. Some of the lead in the plates will go into service as lead chloride. Then the chloride is emitted as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have actually happened by now. If the odor of chlorine has gone and the batteries still work effectively, they will carry on working. That is all there is to it. Rather use purified water - in an emergency situation, tap water. Hello Just how much water for dissolving 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not conserve more energy.
tanks Hey, did you guys ever become aware of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (undoubtedly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the phase of explore it. I'm quite sure it's not a placebo, determined with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery seems to charge a lot cooler (depending upon concentration of it in each cell).
Just thought it interesting and wan na share with you guys. Afdhal - Yes. I comprised numerous suspensions based on both conductive triggered and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. A few of the mixes simply settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does calm down at the bottom, the technique is to add it just after the battery charged up until it gassing strongly, that method, it will stir the electrolyte, preserving the suspension. Giving it a chance convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering up the plates, increasing active surface location, minimizing internal impedance.
Yup, the downside of it is that it only can be usage once, however hey, it's better than absolutely nothing, right? Afdhal - I attempted a number of proprietary emulsifying agents to to keep the carbon suspended. Most did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid but one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - how to restore a car battery.
I had a different goal - test and recondition car battery. Jorge- my experience with additives is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a complete wild-goose chase & is even harmful to battery- the advised level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the quantity mentioned by the poster should have been a joke. To dissolve 1 teaspoon, put in a jar with cover, include 15 ml water, shake till liquified then put into each cell.
Bevan - Have you attempted salt sulfate? I when make a little battery out of little 1cm lead plates immersed in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, salt sulfate, and copper sulfate. Obviously it gets weaker when aside from HSO4 being used, but the outcome is: * HSO4 being the greatest, slowest to charge, also, the plates appears to be eroded quite quickly. * MgSO4 the look of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates in complete charge-discharge cycle is reduced. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, but likewise the weakest. * CuSO4 triggers the negative plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I wonder if NaSO4 would implies faster charging in genuine battery Now, the only sulfate I miss would be cadmium sulfate, I can't find low-cost source of it yet. Hence the carbon-additive experiment. All - I likewise attempted using pencil 'lead' as my carbon for negative electrode (how to reconditioning car battery). It has the greatest brief peak discharge existing.