You may like to share the name of the battery, type and try to find an identification number, anything to assist recognize it. Then we might try to speak with the producer, discover precisely what sort of technology. Not all batteries are the very same. You did not provide information of the type of water you used.
I would think your battery has actually lost many of the active product from its plates. Charging at 10s of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have actually leaded through. A shorted cell. Attempt examining the acid SG. Automobile batteries like to be charged at just a couple of amps, for a few days after being diminished.
( If you think in fairies, attempt some kind of renewal.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Not exactly sure the precise model, I will try to get the identifiers Mond when I eliminate it from the cars and truck. The charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is utilized for trickle charging, it does control the current output to the needs of the battery.
I believe it to be a very soft water treated with fluoride. Really you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I've learnt that the Autocraft batteries are cost Advance Car Components as their brand name. They currently offer a Gold and Silver variation no Titanium.
I have actually now check out that different producers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Vehicle Parts because nobody mfg can produce enough to provide them - diy recondition car battery. However that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern United States region. Johnson Controls should have it's name on the battery in question. Also I found out they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't restore the battery I might make a project out of neutralizing the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and design of it. Craig - This is exactly why we are going over batteries. I looked at the link to the water report. Unfortunately the report is not a true report on the chemical composition of the water, more of a PR workout on lead, etc.
What I would be interested in is to know what the alloy remains in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to inform by means of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is relatively brittle. Lead-calcium tends to be more flexible. The negative grids are bound to be lead-calcium (reconditioning car battery).
Count the number of times you flex and correct the alignment of prior to it snaps. I have actually done this myself numerous times. Antimony stops working well prior to calcium. The difference is about three times. If the maker utilized diamond broadened lead sheet, all bets are off. But I would be extremely surprised. The separators are really crucial components.
You may like to establish if the separators are sticking to the negatives, as if lead worked its way into the pores from the negatives. That suggests overcharging. The condition of the positives is critically essential (recondition a battery). I believe you will find the grids corroded away in places and active product has fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has actually been detached for a very long time. An indication of grid rust. I question you will find more than an irrelevant quantity of sulfate. I live in haiti and everyone here has batteries and inverters in our houses. i just discovered that they are using Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to fix this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The reaction in the battery is two-fold. A few of the lead in the plates will enter into option as lead chloride. Then the chloride is offered off as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have actually taken place by now. If the smell of chlorine has gone and the batteries still work effectively, they will continue working. That is all there is to it. Rather use purified water - in an emergency situation, tap water. Hi Just how much water for dissolving 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have actually a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not save more energy.
tanks Hey, did you guys ever become aware of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (certainly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the phase of experimenting with it. I'm rather sure it's not a placebo, determined with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery appears to charge a lot cooler (depending on concentration of it in each cell).
Just believed it fascinating and wan na show you guys. Afdhal - Yes. I comprised different suspensions based on both conductive activated and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. A few of the mixtures just settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle at the bottom, the trick is to add it simply after the battery charged up till it gassing vigorously, that method, it will stir the electrolyte, maintaining the suspension. Providing it an opportunity convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, concealing the plates, increasing active surface location, decreasing internal impedance.
Yup, the drawback of it is that it just can be use when, however hey, it's much better than absolutely nothing, right? Afdhal - I attempted a variety of proprietary emulsifying agents to to keep the carbon suspended. A lot of did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid but one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - how to recondition a battery at home.
I had a different objective - diy recondition car battery. Jorge- my experience with additives is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a total waste of time & is even harmful to battery- the recommended level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the quantity specified by the poster needs to have been a joke. To liquify 1 teaspoon, put in a jar with lid, add 15 ml water, shake till liquified then pour into each cell.
Bevan - Have you attempted sodium sulfate? I once make a small battery out of small 1cm lead plates immersed in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, sodium sulfate, and copper sulfate. Naturally it gets weaker when aside from HSO4 being used, but the outcome is: * HSO4 being the greatest, slowest to charge, also, the plates seems to be deteriorated rather quickly. * MgSO4 the appearance of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates completely charge-discharge cycle is lowered. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, however likewise the weakest. * CuSO4 causes the negative plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I question if NaSO4 would indicates much faster charging in real battery Now, the only sulfate I miss out on would be cadmium sulfate, I can't discover cheap source of it yet. Thus the carbon-additive experiment. All - I likewise attempted utilizing pencil 'lead' as my carbon for unfavorable electrode (how to reconditioning car battery). It has the greatest brief peak discharge current.