You may like to share the name of the battery, type and search for an identification number, anything to assist determine it. Then we could try to talk to the manufacturer, learn exactly what sort of innovation. Not all batteries are the very same. You did not provide details of the type of water you used.
I would think your battery has actually lost most of the active material from its plates. Charging at tens of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have actually leaded through. A shorted cell. Try inspecting the acid SG. Vehicle batteries like to be charged at just a couple of amps, for a few days after being diminished.
( If you think in fairies, attempt some type of restoration.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Unsure the precise design, I will attempt to get the identifiers Mond when I remove it from the vehicle. The charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is utilized for trickle charging, it does control the existing output to the needs of the battery.
I think it to be an extremely soft water treated with fluoride. In fact you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I have actually discovered out that the Autocraft batteries are offered at Advance Auto Parts as their brand name. They currently sell a Gold and Silver version no Titanium.
I have actually now read that numerous producers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Vehicle Parts due to the fact that nobody mfg can produce enough to supply them - automotive battery reconditioning. But that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern United States region. Johnson Controls need to have it's name on the battery in concern. Also I found out they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't restore the battery I may make a task out of reducing the effects of the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and style of it. Craig - This is exactly why we are discussing batteries. I looked at the link to the water report. Unfortunately the report is not a real report on the chemical structure of the water, more of a PR workout on lead, and so on.
What I would be interested in is to understand what the alloy remains in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to inform by means of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is reasonably fragile. Lead-calcium tends to be more malleable. The negative grids are bound to be lead-calcium (how to recondition a wore out battery).
Count the variety of times you bend and align prior to it snaps. I have actually done this myself lot of times. Antimony stops working well prior to calcium. The distinction has to do with three times. If the maker utilized diamond broadened lead sheet, all bets are off. However I would be really stunned. The separators are extremely essential components.
You may like to establish if the separators are adhering to the negatives, as if lead worked its way into the pores from the negatives. That is a sign of overcharging. The condition of the positives is seriously important (recondition old battery). I suspect you will discover the grids corroded away in places and active product has actually fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has actually been disconnected for a very long time. A sign of grid deterioration. I doubt you will discover more than an unimportant quantity of sulfate. I live in haiti and everybody here has batteries and inverters in our homes. i simply discovered that they are utilizing Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to remedy this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The response in the battery is two-fold. A few of the lead in the plates will go into service as lead chloride. Then the chloride is emitted as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have actually taken place by now. If the odor of chlorine has actually gone and the batteries still work effectively, they will bring on working. That is all there is to it. Rather use cleansed water - in an emergency, faucet water. Hey there Just how much water for dissolving 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not conserve more energy.
tanks Hey, did you guys ever heard of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (undoubtedly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the phase of try out it. I'm quite sure it's not a placebo, measured with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery seems to charge a lot cooler (depending upon concentration of it in each cell).
Simply believed it intriguing and wan na share with you men. Afdhal - Yes. I made up different suspensions based upon both conductive triggered and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. A few of the mixes simply settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle at the bottom, the trick is to add it simply after the battery charged up till it gassing vigorously, that method, it will stir the electrolyte, keeping the suspension. Giving it an opportunity convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering the plates, increasing active surface location, decreasing internal impedance.
Yup, the downside of it is that it only can be usage when, however hey, it's better than absolutely nothing, right? Afdhal - I tried a number of proprietary emulsifying agents to to keep the carbon suspended. The majority of did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid but one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - automotive battery reconditioning.
I had a different objective - do i need to charge car battery after battery recondition. Jorge- my experience with ingredients is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a complete waste of time & is even damaging to battery- the recommended level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the amount mentioned by the poster must have been a joke. To liquify 1 teaspoon, put in a container with cover, include 15 ml water, shake till liquified then put into each cell.
Bevan - Have you tried sodium sulfate? I once make a small battery out of little 1cm lead plates immersed in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, sodium sulfate, and copper sulfate. Naturally it gets weaker when aside from HSO4 being used, however the result is: * HSO4 being the strongest, slowest to charge, also, the plates appears to be deteriorated quite quick. * MgSO4 the appearance of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates completely charge-discharge cycle is reduced. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, but likewise the weakest. * CuSO4 triggers the unfavorable plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I question if NaSO4 would indicates quicker charging in real battery Now, the only sulfate I miss would be cadmium sulfate, I can't find low-cost source of it yet. Hence the carbon-additive experiment. All - I likewise tried utilizing pencil 'lead' as my carbon for negative electrode (recondition a battery). It has the highest brief peak discharge current.