You might like to share the name of the battery, type and search for a serial number, anything to help determine it. Then we could attempt to talk with the producer, discover exactly what sort of innovation. Not all batteries are the exact same. You did not offer information of the kind of water you used.
I would think your battery has actually lost most of the active product from its plates. Charging at tens of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have actually leaded through. A shorted cell. Try checking the acid SG. Automobile batteries like to be charged at simply a couple of amps, for a couple of days after being diminished.
( If you believe in fairies, try some type of restoration.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Uncertain the precise model, I will attempt to get the identifiers Mond when I eliminate it from the car. The battery charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is utilized for drip charging, it does manage the present output to the needs of the battery.
I believe it to be an extremely soft water treated with fluoride. In fact you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I have actually discovered that the Autocraft batteries are cost Advance Car Parts as their brand. They presently sell a Gold and Silver variation no Titanium.
I've now check out that various makers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Car Components due to the fact that no one mfg can produce enough to supply them - how to recondition any battery. However that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern United States area. Johnson Controls ought to have it's name on the battery in concern. Likewise I learnt they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't revive the battery I might make a task out of reducing the effects of the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and style of it. Craig - This is exactly why we are going over batteries. I took a look at the link to the water report. Sadly the report is not a real report on the chemical composition of the water, more of a PR exercise on lead, and so on.
What I would be interested in is to understand what the alloy is in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to tell by ways of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is relatively brittle. Lead-calcium tends to be more malleable. The negative grids are bound to be lead-calcium (how do you recondition a dead battery).
Count the number of times you flex and align prior to it snaps. I have actually done this myself often times. Antimony stops working well prior to calcium. The distinction has to do with 3 times. If the producer used diamond expanded lead sheet, all bets are off. But I would be very shocked. The separators are very important parts.
You may like to determine if the separators are sticking to the negatives, as if lead worked its way into the pores from the negatives. That signifies overcharging. The condition of the positives is critically essential (battery recondition). I believe you will discover the grids corroded away in places and active product has fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has been detached for a long time. An indication of grid corrosion. I doubt you will discover more than an insignificant quantity of sulfate. I live in haiti and everybody here has batteries and inverters in our homes. i just found out that they are using Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to fix this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The reaction in the battery is two-fold. Some of the lead in the plates will enter into solution as lead chloride. Then the chloride is released as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have actually occurred by now. If the odor of chlorine has actually gone and the batteries still work successfully, they will carry on working. That is all there is to it. Rather use purified water - in an emergency situation, faucet water. Hello Just how much water for dissolving 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not conserve more energy.
tanks Hey, did you people ever heard of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (undoubtedly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the phase of exploring with it. I'm quite sure it's not a placebo, determined with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery seems to charge a lot cooler (depending upon concentration of it in each cell).
Simply believed it intriguing and wan na show you guys. Afdhal - Yes. I made up various suspensions based upon both conductive triggered and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. Some of the mixes just settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle at the bottom, the trick is to add it just after the battery charged up till it gassing intensely, that method, it will stir the electrolyte, maintaining the suspension. Giving it a chance convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, concealing the plates, increasing active surface location, minimizing internal impedance.
Yup, the downside of it is that it just can be use once, however hey, it's much better than nothing, right? Afdhal - I attempted a variety of proprietary emulsifying agents to to keep the carbon suspended. Most did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid however one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - battery reconditioning com.
I had a different objective - how to recondition an old battery. Jorge- my experience with additives is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a total waste of time & is even harmful to battery- the recommended level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the quantity mentioned by the poster must have been a joke. To liquify 1 teaspoon, put in a jar with cover, add 15 ml water, shake till dissolved then pour into each cell.
Bevan - Have you attempted salt sulfate? I as soon as make a little battery out of little 1cm lead plates submerged in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, sodium sulfate, and copper sulfate. Naturally it gets weaker when aside from HSO4 being utilized, but the outcome is: * HSO4 being the strongest, slowest to charge, also, the plates seems to be deteriorated quite quickly. * MgSO4 the appearance of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates completely charge-discharge cycle is reduced. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, however also the weakest. * CuSO4 causes the negative plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I question if NaSO4 would implies much faster charging in real battery Now, the only sulfate I miss would be cadmium sulfate, I can't find inexpensive source of it yet. Thus the carbon-additive experiment. All - I also tried utilizing pencil 'lead' as my carbon for unfavorable electrode (how to recondition a dead car battery). It has the highest short peak discharge current.