You might like to share the name of the battery, type and look for an identification number, anything to help determine it. Then we could attempt to talk to the maker, discover out precisely what type of innovation. Not all batteries are the exact same. You did not give information of the kind of water you utilized.
I would guess your battery has actually lost the majority of the active material from its plates. Charging at tens of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have actually leaded through. A shorted cell. Attempt checking the acid SG. Car batteries like to be charged at simply a couple of amps, for a couple of days after being run down.
( If you think in fairies, try some sort of restoration.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Uncertain the exact design, I will try to get the identifiers Mond when I eliminate it from the automobile. The charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is used for trickle charging, it does manage the present output to the needs of the battery.
I think it to be a really soft water treated with fluoride. Really you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I have actually learnt that the Autocraft batteries are cost Advance Auto Parts as their brand name. They currently sell a Gold and Silver variation no Titanium.
I have actually now check out that numerous makers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Car Components since nobody mfg can produce enough to provide them - how to recondition any battery. But that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern US area. Johnson Controls ought to have it's name on the battery in concern. Also I discovered out they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't revive the battery I may make a job out of neutralizing the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and style of it. Craig - This is exactly why we are going over batteries. I looked at the link to the water report. Regrettably the report is not a real report on the chemical structure of the water, more of a PR exercise on lead, etc.
What I would have an interest in is to understand what the alloy is in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to tell by methods of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is reasonably brittle. Lead-calcium tends to be more flexible. The negative grids are bound to be lead-calcium (how to recondition a dead car battery).
Count the number of times you bend and correct the alignment of before it snaps. I have done this myself sometimes. Antimony stops working well prior to calcium. The distinction is about 3 times. If the maker utilized diamond expanded lead sheet, all bets are off. But I would be extremely shocked. The separators are very essential components.
You may like to establish if the separators are adhering to the negatives, as if lead worked its way into the pores from the negatives. That is an indication of overcharging. The condition of the positives is critically essential (how to restore a car battery). I think you will find the grids corroded away in places and active product has actually fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has been detached for a long time. An indication of grid corrosion. I doubt you will discover more than an unimportant amount of sulfate. I live in haiti and everyone here has batteries and inverters in our houses. i just learnt that they are utilizing Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to fix this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The response in the battery is two-fold. Some of the lead in the plates will enter into option as lead chloride. Then the chloride is produced as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have occurred by now. If the odor of chlorine has gone and the batteries still work effectively, they will continue working. That is all there is to it. Rather use purified water - in an emergency, tap water. Hi How much water for dissolving 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have actually a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not conserve more energy.
tanks Hey, did you people ever become aware of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (certainly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the stage of exploring with it. I'm rather sure it's not a placebo, measured with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery appears to charge a lot cooler (depending upon concentration of it in each cell).
Simply thought it fascinating and wan na show you guys. Afdhal - Yes. I made up different suspensions based on both conductive triggered and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. A few of the mixes simply settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle at the bottom, the technique is to include it just after the battery charged up till it gassing intensely, that method, it will stir the electrolyte, preserving the suspension. Offering it a chance convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering the plates, increasing active area, lowering internal impedance.
Yup, the downside of it is that it just can be use once, but hey, it's much better than absolutely nothing, right? Afdhal - I tried a variety of exclusive emulsifying agents to to keep the carbon suspended. Many did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid but one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - recondition a battery.
I had a different goal - reconditioning battery. Jorge- my experience with ingredients is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a complete wild-goose chase & is even harmful to battery- the advised level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the quantity stated by the poster needs to have been a joke. To dissolve 1 teaspoon, put in a jar with cover, add 15 ml water, shake till dissolved then put into each cell.
Bevan - Have you tried sodium sulfate? I once make a little battery out of little 1cm lead plates immersed in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, sodium sulfate, and copper sulfate. Naturally it gets weaker when besides HSO4 being utilized, however the outcome is: * HSO4 being the greatest, slowest to charge, likewise, the plates appears to be eroded rather fast. * MgSO4 the look of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates completely charge-discharge cycle is decreased. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, but likewise the weakest. * CuSO4 triggers the negative plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I question if NaSO4 would indicates much faster charging in real battery Now, the only sulfate I miss out on would be cadmium sulfate, I can't discover low-cost source of it yet. For this reason the carbon-additive experiment. All - I also attempted using pencil 'lead' as my carbon for unfavorable electrode (recondition car battery for sale). It has the greatest brief peak discharge present.