You may like to share the name of the battery, type and look for an identification number, anything to help identify it. Then we might try to speak to the manufacturer, discover out precisely what type of technology. Not all batteries are the exact same. You did not give details of the kind of water you used.
I would guess your battery has actually lost most of the active product from its plates. Charging at 10s of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have leaded through. A shorted cell. Try examining the acid SG. Car batteries like to be charged at just a couple of amps, for a few days after being diminished.
( If you think in fairies, attempt some type of rejuvenation.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Not sure the precise design, I will attempt to get the identifiers Mond when I remove it from the car. The charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is utilized for drip charging, it does manage the existing output to the needs of the battery.
I think it to be a really soft water treated with fluoride. Actually you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I have actually learnt that the Autocraft batteries are cost Advance Auto Components as their brand name. They currently offer a Gold and Silver variation no Titanium.
I have actually now read that various makers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Vehicle Parts because no one mfg can produce sufficient to provide them - how to recondition a 12v battery. However that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern US region. Johnson Controls need to have it's name on the battery in concern. Also I learnt they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't revive the battery I might make a task out of neutralizing the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and design of it. Craig - This is exactly why we are talking about batteries. I looked at the link to the water report. Regrettably the report is not a true report on the chemical structure of the water, more of a PR exercise on lead, and so on.
What I would have an interest in is to know what the alloy remains in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to tell by means of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is relatively breakable. Lead-calcium tends to be more malleable. The negative grids are bound to be lead-calcium (how to recondition a dead battery).
Count the number of times you bend and correct the alignment of before it snaps. I have done this myself often times. Antimony stops working well before calcium. The distinction is about three times. If the maker used diamond broadened lead sheet, all bets are off. But I would be extremely stunned. The separators are extremely crucial components.
You may like to ascertain if the separators are adhering to the negatives, as if lead worked its way into the pores from the negatives. That is a sign of overcharging. The condition of the positives is critically important (how to recondition a battery). I think you will discover the grids rusted away in locations and active product has fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has been detached for a very long time. A sign of grid rust. I question you will discover more than an insignificant amount of sulfate. I live in haiti and everybody here has batteries and inverters in our homes. i just found out that they are utilizing Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to correct this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The response in the battery is two-fold. Some of the lead in the plates will go into solution as lead chloride. Then the chloride is produced as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have occurred by now. If the odor of chlorine has gone and the batteries still work efficiently, they will continue working. That is all there is to it. Rather utilize purified water - in an emergency, tap water. Hey there Just how much water for dissolving 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have actually a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not conserve more energy.
tanks Hey, did you guys ever heard of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (undoubtedly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the phase of try out it. I'm rather sure it's not a placebo, measured with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery appears to charge a lot cooler (depending upon concentration of it in each cell).
Simply thought it interesting and wan na share with you men. Afdhal - Yes. I made up different suspensions based upon both conductive activated and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. A few of the mixes simply settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle down at the bottom, the trick is to add it simply after the battery charged up until it gassing strongly, that method, it will stir the electrolyte, preserving the suspension. Giving it an opportunity convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, concealing the plates, increasing active surface area, lowering internal impedance.
Yup, the disadvantage of it is that it only can be use once, however hey, it's much better than absolutely nothing, right? Afdhal - I attempted a number of proprietary emulsifying representatives to to keep the carbon suspended. Many did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid however one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - recondition a car battery.
I had a different objective - how to recondition a car battery. Jorge- my experience with ingredients is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a complete waste of time & is even harmful to battery- the advised level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the amount specified by the poster should have been a joke. To liquify 1 teaspoon, put in a jar with lid, add 15 ml water, shake till liquified then put into each cell.
Bevan - Have you tried sodium sulfate? I when make a little battery out of small 1cm lead plates submerged in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, salt sulfate, and copper sulfate. Of course it gets weaker when other than HSO4 being used, however the result is: * HSO4 being the greatest, slowest to charge, also, the plates seems to be worn down rather quick. * MgSO4 the appearance of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates completely charge-discharge cycle is decreased. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, but also the weakest. * CuSO4 causes the negative plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I wonder if NaSO4 would suggests faster charging in genuine battery Now, the only sulfate I miss out on would be cadmium sulfate, I can't discover cheap source of it yet. Hence the carbon-additive experiment. All - I likewise attempted utilizing pencil 'lead' as my carbon for unfavorable electrode (how to restore a dead battery car). It has the highest brief peak discharge present.