You may like to share the name of the battery, type and try to find an identification number, anything to help recognize it. Then we could try to speak to the manufacturer, find out precisely what type of technology. Not all batteries are the exact same. You did not offer information of the type of water you utilized.
I would guess your battery has actually lost many of the active product from its plates. Charging at tens of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have leaded through. A shorted cell. Attempt examining the acid SG. Auto batteries like to be charged at simply a couple of amps, for a couple of days after being diminished.
( If you believe in fairies, attempt some kind of rejuvenation.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Unsure the specific design, I will attempt to get the identifiers Mond when I eliminate it from the car. The battery charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is used for drip charging, it does manage the current output to the needs of the battery.
I believe it to be a very soft water treated with fluoride. In fact you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I've learnt that the Autocraft batteries are cost Advance Vehicle Components as their brand name. They currently offer a Gold and Silver variation no Titanium.
I have actually now check out that different producers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Auto Components since nobody mfg can produce sufficient to provide them - recondition a battery. But that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern United States area. Johnson Controls should have it's name on the battery in concern. Likewise I found out they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't restore the battery I may make a task out of neutralizing the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and design of it. Craig - This is precisely why we are talking about batteries. I looked at the link to the water report. Regrettably the report is not a real report on the chemical structure of the water, more of a PR exercise on lead, and so on.
What I would have an interest in is to know what the alloy remains in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to inform by means of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is relatively breakable. Lead-calcium tends to be more flexible. The unfavorable grids are bound to be lead-calcium (test and recondition car battery).
Count the variety of times you bend and correct the alignment of before it snaps. I have actually done this myself sometimes. Antimony fails well prior to calcium. The distinction has to do with 3 times. If the maker used diamond expanded lead sheet, all bets are off. However I would be extremely stunned. The separators are really important elements.
You may like to determine if the separators are adhering to the negatives, as if lead worked its way into the pores from the negatives. That suggests overcharging. The condition of the positives is seriously important (how to restore a dead battery car). I presume you will discover the grids corroded away in places and active product has fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has been disconnected for a very long time. An indication of grid corrosion. I doubt you will find more than an irrelevant amount of sulfate. I reside in haiti and everybody here has batteries and inverters in our homes. i simply found out that they are using Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to fix this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The response in the battery is two-fold. Some of the lead in the plates will go into service as lead chloride. Then the chloride is provided off as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have occurred by now. If the odor of chlorine has gone and the batteries still work successfully, they will continue working. That is all there is to it. Rather use purified water - in an emergency situation, faucet water. Hey there How much water for dissolving 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have actually a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not save more energy.
tanks Hey, did you guys ever become aware of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (obviously) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the stage of explore it. I'm rather sure it's not a placebo, determined with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery appears to charge a lot cooler (depending upon concentration of it in each cell).
Simply believed it interesting and wan na show you guys. Afdhal - Yes. I made up different suspensions based upon both conductive activated and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. A few of the mixes simply settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does calm down at the bottom, the technique is to include it simply after the battery charged up until it gassing strongly, that method, it will stir the electrolyte, preserving the suspension. Providing it an opportunity convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering the plates, increasing active area, reducing internal impedance.
Yup, the disadvantage of it is that it only can be use as soon as, however hey, it's much better than nothing, right? Afdhal - I tried a variety of exclusive emulsifying agents to to keep the carbon suspended. Most did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid but one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - battery reconditioning com.
I had a various objective - reconditioning a 12 volt truck battery. Jorge- my experience with ingredients is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a total waste of time & is even damaging to battery- the advised level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the amount specified by the poster must have been a joke. To dissolve 1 teaspoon, put in a jar with lid, include 15 ml water, shake till dissolved then pour into each cell.
Bevan - Have you attempted sodium sulfate? I when make a little battery out of small 1cm lead plates immersed in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, salt sulfate, and copper sulfate. Of course it gets weaker when other than HSO4 being used, but the result is: * HSO4 being the strongest, slowest to charge, also, the plates appears to be deteriorated rather quick. * MgSO4 the look of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates completely charge-discharge cycle is reduced. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, but also the weakest. * CuSO4 triggers the unfavorable plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I question if NaSO4 would implies much faster charging in real battery Now, the only sulfate I miss out on would be cadmium sulfate, I can't discover cheap source of it yet. Thus the carbon-additive experiment. All - I likewise attempted utilizing pencil 'lead' as my carbon for unfavorable electrode (how do you recondition a car battery). It has the highest short peak discharge existing.