You may like to share the name of the battery, type and search for a serial number, anything to assist identify it. Then we might attempt to talk to the manufacturer, find out exactly what kind of technology. Not all batteries are the very same. You did not provide information of the type of water you used.
I would guess your battery has lost most of the active material from its plates. Charging at tens of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have leaded through. A shorted cell. Try examining the acid SG. Auto batteries like to be charged at simply a couple of amps, for a couple of days after being run down.
( If you believe in fairies, try some kind of restoration.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Uncertain the exact design, I will try to get the identifiers Mond when I eliminate it from the vehicle. The battery charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is utilized for trickle charging, it does manage the current output to the requirements of the battery.
I think it to be a very soft water treated with fluoride. Really you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I've discovered out that the Autocraft batteries are sold at Advance Car Parts as their brand name. They currently offer a Gold and Silver variation no Titanium.
I've now read that various makers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Auto Components due to the fact that no one mfg can produce sufficient to supply them - recondition a car battery. But that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern United States region. Johnson Controls ought to have it's name on the battery in question. Also I discovered they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't revive the battery I may make a task out of reducing the effects of the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and style of it. Craig - This is precisely why we are going over batteries. I looked at the link to the water report. Unfortunately the report is not a real report on the chemical structure of the water, more of a PR workout on lead, and so on.
What I would have an interest in is to know what the alloy is in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to inform by ways of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is reasonably fragile. Lead-calcium tends to be more malleable. The unfavorable grids are bound to be lead-calcium (battery recondition).
Count the number of times you flex and correct before it snaps. I have done this myself lot of times. Antimony stops working well prior to calcium. The difference is about 3 times. If the maker utilized diamond broadened lead sheet, all bets are off. But I would be extremely stunned. The separators are really crucial components.
You may like to ascertain if the separators are sticking to the negatives, as if lead worked its way into the pores from the negatives. That signifies overcharging. The condition of the positives is seriously essential (recondition old battery). I presume you will discover the grids corroded away in places and active material has fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has been detached for a very long time. A sign of grid corrosion. I question you will discover more than an irrelevant quantity of sulfate. I reside in haiti and everybody here has batteries and inverters in our homes. i just learnt that they are utilizing Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to correct this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The response in the battery is two-fold. Some of the lead in the plates will enter into service as lead chloride. Then the chloride is produced as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have happened by now. If the odor of chlorine has actually gone and the batteries still work successfully, they will carry on working. That is all there is to it. Rather use cleansed water - in an emergency, faucet water. Hello How much water for dissolving 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not conserve more energy.
tanks Hey, did you people ever heard of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (undoubtedly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the phase of try out it. I'm rather sure it's not a placebo, determined with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery appears to charge a lot cooler (depending upon concentration of it in each cell).
Just thought it interesting and wan na share with you men. Afdhal - Yes. I comprised different suspensions based on both conductive triggered and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. A few of the mixes simply settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does calm down at the bottom, the trick is to add it just after the battery charged up until it gassing intensely, that way, it will stir the electrolyte, keeping the suspension. Giving it an opportunity convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, concealing the plates, increasing active area, reducing internal impedance.
Yup, the disadvantage of it is that it just can be use when, however hey, it's better than nothing, right? Afdhal - I attempted a number of exclusive emulsifying representatives to to keep the carbon suspended. The majority of did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid however one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - how to recondition a wore out battery.
I had a different objective - diy recondition car battery. Jorge- my experience with ingredients is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a total waste of time & is even harmful to battery- the suggested level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the quantity stated by the poster needs to have been a joke. To liquify 1 teaspoon, put in a jar with cover, add 15 ml water, shake till dissolved then put into each cell.
Bevan - Have you attempted salt sulfate? I when make a little battery out of little 1cm lead plates immersed in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, sodium sulfate, and copper sulfate. Obviously it gets weaker when besides HSO4 being used, however the outcome is: * HSO4 being the greatest, slowest to charge, likewise, the plates appears to be eroded rather quick. * MgSO4 the look of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates in complete charge-discharge cycle is minimized. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, however also the weakest. * CuSO4 triggers the negative plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I wonder if NaSO4 would implies much faster charging in genuine battery Now, the only sulfate I miss out on would be cadmium sulfate, I can't discover cheap source of it yet. Hence the carbon-additive experiment. All - I also tried using pencil 'lead' as my carbon for unfavorable electrode (do i need to charge car battery after battery recondition). It has the greatest short peak discharge existing.