You might like to share the name of the battery, type and look for an identification number, anything to help identify it. Then we might attempt to talk with the producer, discover exactly what kind of innovation. Not all batteries are the very same. You did not provide details of the kind of water you utilized.
I would think your battery has lost most of the active product from its plates. Charging at 10s of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have actually leaded through. A shorted cell. Try examining the acid SG. Auto batteries like to be charged at simply a number of amps, for a couple of days after being diminished.
( If you believe in fairies, try some kind of rejuvenation.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Not exactly sure the precise design, I will try to get the identifiers Mond when I eliminate it from the vehicle. The charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is used for trickle charging, it does manage the existing output to the requirements of the battery.
I think it to be a very soft water treated with fluoride. In fact you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I've learnt that the Autocraft batteries are offered at Advance Vehicle Parts as their brand name. They currently offer a Gold and Silver variation no Titanium.
I've now read that different producers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Car Components because no one mfg can produce sufficient to provide them - how to recondition an old battery. However that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern US area. Johnson Controls need to have it's name on the battery in question. Likewise I learnt they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't restore the battery I may make a project out of neutralizing the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and style of it. Craig - This is exactly why we are talking about batteries. I looked at the link to the water report. Unfortunately the report is not a real report on the chemical composition of the water, more of a PR exercise on lead, etc.
What I would be interested in is to know what the alloy is in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to inform by means of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is fairly brittle. Lead-calcium tends to be more flexible. The negative grids are bound to be lead-calcium (how to recondition a wore out battery).
Count the variety of times you flex and correct the alignment of before it snaps. I have actually done this myself often times. Antimony stops working well before calcium. The difference is about 3 times. If the maker used diamond broadened lead sheet, all bets are off. However I would be very shocked. The separators are extremely essential parts.
You might like to establish if the separators are sticking to the negatives, as if lead worked its way into the pores from the negatives. That signifies overcharging. The condition of the positives is critically important (materials needed to recondition car battery). I think you will find the grids corroded away in places and active material has fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has actually been disconnected for a very long time. An indication of grid rust. I doubt you will find more than an irrelevant amount of sulfate. I live in haiti and everyone here has batteries and inverters in our houses. i simply found out that they are utilizing Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to correct this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The response in the battery is two-fold. A few of the lead in the plates will go into solution as lead chloride. Then the chloride is emitted as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have taken place by now. If the odor of chlorine has actually gone and the batteries still work effectively, they will bring on working. That is all there is to it. Rather utilize purified water - in an emergency situation, faucet water. Hey there How much water for liquifying 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have actually a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not save more energy.
tanks Hey, did you people ever heard of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (certainly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the stage of explore it. I'm rather sure it's not a placebo, measured with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery seems to charge a lot cooler (depending on concentration of it in each cell).
Simply believed it intriguing and wan na show you guys. Afdhal - Yes. I made up various suspensions based on both conductive triggered and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. A few of the mixtures just settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle down at the bottom, the trick is to include it just after the battery charged up till it gassing vigorously, that method, it will stir the electrolyte, keeping the suspension. Giving it an opportunity convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, concealing the plates, increasing active area, reducing internal impedance.
Yup, the disadvantage of it is that it only can be use as soon as, however hey, it's better than absolutely nothing, right? Afdhal - I tried a number of exclusive emulsifying representatives to to keep the carbon suspended. Most did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid but one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - reconditioning battery.
I had a different goal - how to recondition a dead battery. Jorge- my experience with ingredients is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a complete wild-goose chase & is even harmful to battery- the suggested level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the quantity mentioned by the poster must have been a joke. To dissolve 1 teaspoon, put in a container with cover, add 15 ml water, shake till liquified then put into each cell.
Bevan - Have you attempted sodium sulfate? I once make a small battery out of small 1cm lead plates submerged in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, sodium sulfate, and copper sulfate. Obviously it gets weaker when other than HSO4 being used, but the result is: * HSO4 being the greatest, slowest to charge, also, the plates seems to be deteriorated quite quick. * MgSO4 the appearance of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates in complete charge-discharge cycle is reduced. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, however also the weakest. * CuSO4 triggers the negative plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I question if NaSO4 would implies quicker charging in genuine battery Now, the only sulfate I miss would be cadmium sulfate, I can't discover cheap source of it yet. Thus the carbon-additive experiment. All - I also attempted utilizing pencil 'lead' as my carbon for unfavorable electrode (is it okay to recondition a car battery with it still connected). It has the greatest brief peak discharge present.