You may like to share the name of the battery, type and search for a serial number, anything to assist identify it. Then we might attempt to talk to the producer, learn precisely what kind of technology. Not all batteries are the exact same. You did not offer details of the kind of water you used.
I would guess your battery has actually lost the majority of the active material from its plates. Charging at 10s of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have leaded through. A shorted cell. Attempt inspecting the acid SG. Auto batteries like to be charged at just a number of amps, for a couple of days after being diminished.
( If you believe in fairies, try some kind of restoration.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Uncertain the exact design, I will attempt to get the identifiers Mond when I remove it from the car. The charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is utilized for drip charging, it does manage the present output to the needs of the battery.
I think it to be a very soft water treated with fluoride. Really you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I've learnt that the Autocraft batteries are offered at Advance Vehicle Parts as their brand. They presently offer a Gold and Silver variation no Titanium.
I've now check out that various manufacturers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Car Components because no one mfg can produce adequate to supply them - test and recondition car battery. However that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern United States area. Johnson Controls should have it's name on the battery in question. Also I discovered they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't revive the battery I may make a job out of reducing the effects of the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and design of it. Craig - This is exactly why we are talking about batteries. I looked at the link to the water report. Regrettably the report is not a true report on the chemical composition of the water, more of a PR workout on lead, etc.
What I would have an interest in is to know what the alloy is in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to tell by methods of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is relatively brittle. Lead-calcium tends to be more malleable. The negative grids are bound to be lead-calcium (recondition dead battery).
Count the number of times you flex and align before it snaps. I have done this myself numerous times. Antimony fails well prior to calcium. The distinction has to do with 3 times. If the manufacturer used diamond expanded lead sheet, all bets are off. However I would be extremely shocked. The separators are extremely important parts.
You may like to determine if the separators are adhering to the negatives, as if lead worked its method into the pores from the negatives. That signifies overcharging. The condition of the positives is seriously crucial (how to recondition a dead battery). I suspect you will discover the grids rusted away in locations and active product has fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has actually been detached for a long time. A sign of grid corrosion. I question you will discover more than an irrelevant amount of sulfate. I reside in haiti and everybody here has batteries and inverters in our homes. i just learnt that they are utilizing Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to fix this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The response in the battery is two-fold. A few of the lead in the plates will go into option as lead chloride. Then the chloride is emitted as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have actually taken place by now. If the smell of chlorine has gone and the batteries still work efficiently, they will bring on working. That is all there is to it. Rather use cleansed water - in an emergency situation, faucet water. Hi How much water for liquifying 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not save more energy.
tanks Hey, did you guys ever become aware of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (obviously) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the stage of explore it. I'm rather sure it's not a placebo, determined with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery seems to charge a lot cooler (depending on concentration of it in each cell).
Simply believed it intriguing and wan na show you men. Afdhal - Yes. I made up numerous suspensions based upon both conductive activated and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. A few of the mixes just settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle down at the bottom, the technique is to include it simply after the battery charged up until it gassing vigorously, that method, it will stir the electrolyte, keeping the suspension. Giving it an opportunity convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering up the plates, increasing active surface location, reducing internal impedance.
Yup, the downside of it is that it just can be use once, however hey, it's better than absolutely nothing, right? Afdhal - I tried a number of proprietary emulsifying representatives to to keep the carbon suspended. Most did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid but one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - how to recondition a battery.
I had a various goal - battery reconditioning com. Jorge- my experience with additives is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a complete waste of time & is even hazardous to battery- the advised level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the quantity stated by the poster needs to have been a joke. To dissolve 1 teaspoon, put in a container with cover, include 15 ml water, shake till dissolved then put into each cell.
Bevan - Have you tried sodium sulfate? I once make a small battery out of little 1cm lead plates submerged in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, sodium sulfate, and copper sulfate. Naturally it gets weaker when aside from HSO4 being used, but the outcome is: * HSO4 being the greatest, slowest to charge, likewise, the plates seems to be eroded quite fast. * MgSO4 the look of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates completely charge-discharge cycle is reduced. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, but also the weakest. * CuSO4 causes the unfavorable plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I wonder if NaSO4 would indicates quicker charging in real battery Now, the only sulfate I miss out on would be cadmium sulfate, I can't discover cheap source of it yet. Hence the carbon-additive experiment. All - I likewise tried using pencil 'lead' as my carbon for unfavorable electrode (how to recondition a battery at home). It has the highest short peak discharge existing.