You may like to share the name of the battery, type and look for a serial number, anything to assist recognize it. Then we might try to talk to the producer, find out precisely what type of innovation. Not all batteries are the very same. You did not provide information of the kind of water you utilized.
I would guess your battery has actually lost the majority of the active material from its plates. Charging at 10s of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have actually leaded through. A shorted cell. Attempt examining the acid SG. Auto batteries like to be charged at just a number of amps, for a few days after being diminished.
( If you believe in fairies, try some kind of rejuvenation.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Uncertain the specific model, I will attempt to get the identifiers Mond when I remove it from the automobile. The charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is utilized for drip charging, it does control the existing output to the requirements of the battery.
I believe it to be an extremely soft water treated with fluoride. Actually you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I've learnt that the Autocraft batteries are cost Advance Automobile Parts as their brand name. They currently offer a Gold and Silver version no Titanium.
I've now read that numerous producers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Car Components since no one mfg can produce enough to provide them - automotive battery reconditioning. However that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern United States area. Johnson Controls should have it's name on the battery in question. Likewise I discovered out they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't revive the battery I might make a job out of neutralizing the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and style of it. Craig - This is specifically why we are discussing batteries. I looked at the link to the water report. Unfortunately the report is not a real report on the chemical composition of the water, more of a PR exercise on lead, and so on.
What I would have an interest in is to understand what the alloy is in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to inform by ways of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is reasonably brittle. Lead-calcium tends to be more flexible. The unfavorable grids are bound to be lead-calcium (how to recondition a dead car battery).
Count the number of times you flex and align prior to it snaps. I have actually done this myself lot of times. Antimony fails well before calcium. The difference has to do with three times. If the producer used diamond expanded lead sheet, all bets are off. However I would be really surprised. The separators are very crucial parts.
You may like to determine if the separators are adhering to the negatives, as if lead worked its method into the pores from the negatives. That signifies overcharging. The condition of the positives is critically important (how to recondition a wore out battery). I presume you will find the grids corroded away in places and active product has fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has actually been detached for a long time. A sign of grid deterioration. I question you will discover more than an unimportant amount of sulfate. I reside in haiti and everyone here has batteries and inverters in our houses. i just discovered that they are utilizing Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to correct this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The reaction in the battery is two-fold. Some of the lead in the plates will enter into option as lead chloride. Then the chloride is produced as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have occurred by now. If the odor of chlorine has gone and the batteries still work effectively, they will continue working. That is all there is to it. Rather utilize purified water - in an emergency, faucet water. Hello How much water for dissolving 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have actually a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not conserve more energy.
tanks Hey, did you guys ever heard of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (clearly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the phase of try out it. I'm rather sure it's not a placebo, measured with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery seems to charge a lot cooler (depending on concentration of it in each cell).
Just believed it intriguing and wan na share with you people. Afdhal - Yes. I made up numerous suspensions based upon both conductive triggered and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. A few of the mixes simply settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle down at the bottom, the trick is to include it simply after the battery charged up till it gassing strongly, that method, it will stir the electrolyte, keeping the suspension. Providing it a possibility convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, concealing the plates, increasing active area, reducing internal impedance.
Yup, the drawback of it is that it only can be usage as soon as, but hey, it's much better than absolutely nothing, right? Afdhal - I tried a number of exclusive emulsifying representatives to to keep the carbon suspended. Most did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid however one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - how do you recondition a car battery.
I had a different objective - how to recondition a battery at home. Jorge- my experience with additives is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a total waste of time & is even damaging to battery- the advised level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the quantity mentioned by the poster must have been a joke. To dissolve 1 teaspoon, put in a jar with cover, add 15 ml water, shake till dissolved then put into each cell.
Bevan - Have you attempted salt sulfate? I as soon as make a little battery out of little 1cm lead plates immersed in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, salt sulfate, and copper sulfate. Of course it gets weaker when other than HSO4 being used, but the outcome is: * HSO4 being the greatest, slowest to charge, likewise, the plates appears to be deteriorated quite fast. * MgSO4 the look of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates in complete charge-discharge cycle is lowered. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, however also the weakest. * CuSO4 causes the negative plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I wonder if NaSO4 would indicates much faster charging in genuine battery Now, the only sulfate I miss would be cadmium sulfate, I can't find inexpensive source of it yet. For this reason the carbon-additive experiment. All - I also attempted utilizing pencil 'lead' as my carbon for unfavorable electrode (reconditioning old battery). It has the greatest short peak discharge existing.