You may like to share the name of the battery, type and search for a serial number, anything to help determine it. Then we might attempt to talk with the maker, find out precisely what sort of technology. Not all batteries are the very same. You did not provide information of the type of water you utilized.
I would think your battery has lost many of the active product from its plates. Charging at tens of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have leaded through. A shorted cell. Try inspecting the acid SG. Car batteries like to be charged at simply a couple of amps, for a few days after being run down.
( If you think in fairies, attempt some sort of restoration.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Unsure the precise model, I will attempt to get the identifiers Mond when I eliminate it from the automobile. The battery charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is utilized for drip charging, it does manage the present output to the requirements of the battery.
I think it to be an extremely soft water treated with fluoride. In fact you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I have actually found out that the Autocraft batteries are sold at Advance Auto Components as their brand name. They currently offer a Gold and Silver version no Titanium.
I have actually now read that different producers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Auto Parts due to the fact that nobody mfg can produce enough to provide them - do i need to charge car battery after battery recondition. But that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern United States area. Johnson Controls need to have it's name on the battery in question. Also I found out they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't restore the battery I may make a project out of neutralizing the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and design of it. Craig - This is exactly why we are talking about batteries. I looked at the link to the water report. Unfortunately the report is not a true report on the chemical structure of the water, more of a PR workout on lead, and so on.
What I would have an interest in is to know what the alloy is in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to tell by means of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is relatively brittle. Lead-calcium tends to be more flexible. The unfavorable grids are bound to be lead-calcium (battery reconditioning equipment).
Count the variety of times you flex and correct the alignment of prior to it snaps. I have actually done this myself sometimes. Antimony stops working well prior to calcium. The difference has to do with three times. If the maker utilized diamond broadened lead sheet, all bets are off. However I would be extremely stunned. The separators are really essential parts.
You might like to ascertain if the separators are sticking to the negatives, as if lead worked its method into the pores from the negatives. That suggests overcharging. The condition of the positives is critically important (reconditioning car battery). I think you will find the grids rusted away in places and active material has fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has been detached for a very long time. A sign of grid deterioration. I question you will find more than an irrelevant amount of sulfate. I reside in haiti and everyone here has batteries and inverters in our houses. i just discovered that they are using Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to remedy this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The reaction in the battery is two-fold. Some of the lead in the plates will go into option as lead chloride. Then the chloride is released as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have actually taken place by now. If the smell of chlorine has actually gone and the batteries still work efficiently, they will bring on working. That is all there is to it. Rather utilize cleansed water - in an emergency, faucet water. Hey there Just how much water for dissolving 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not conserve more energy.
tanks Hey, did you people ever become aware of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (certainly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the stage of try out it. I'm rather sure it's not a placebo, determined with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery seems to charge a lot cooler (depending on concentration of it in each cell).
Simply thought it interesting and wan na show you people. Afdhal - Yes. I comprised numerous suspensions based upon both conductive activated and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. Some of the mixtures just settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle down at the bottom, the trick is to include it just after the battery charged up till it gassing strongly, that method, it will stir the electrolyte, preserving the suspension. Providing it a possibility convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering the plates, increasing active surface area, minimizing internal impedance.
Yup, the drawback of it is that it only can be usage once, however hey, it's better than nothing, right? Afdhal - I attempted a variety of proprietary emulsifying agents to to keep the carbon suspended. Most did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid but one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - recondition a car battery.
I had a different objective - how to restore a car battery. Jorge- my experience with ingredients is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a complete wild-goose chase & is even damaging to battery- the advised level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the amount specified by the poster must have been a joke. To liquify 1 teaspoon, put in a container with lid, include 15 ml water, shake till liquified then put into each cell.
Bevan - Have you attempted sodium sulfate? I as soon as make a little battery out of little 1cm lead plates submerged in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, sodium sulfate, and copper sulfate. Obviously it gets weaker when aside from HSO4 being utilized, but the outcome is: * HSO4 being the greatest, slowest to charge, likewise, the plates appears to be worn down rather quick. * MgSO4 the appearance of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates in complete charge-discharge cycle is reduced. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, but also the weakest. * CuSO4 triggers the unfavorable plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I wonder if NaSO4 would suggests much faster charging in real battery Now, the only sulfate I miss out on would be cadmium sulfate, I can't find inexpensive source of it yet. For this reason the carbon-additive experiment. All - I likewise attempted using pencil 'lead' as my carbon for unfavorable electrode (how to recondition a car battery). It has the greatest brief peak discharge current.