You may like to share the name of the battery, type and try to find a serial number, anything to assist determine it. Then we might attempt to speak with the maker, discover exactly what sort of innovation. Not all batteries are the exact same. You did not offer information of the kind of water you utilized.
I would think your battery has lost the majority of the active product from its plates. Charging at 10s of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have leaded through. A shorted cell. Try inspecting the acid SG. Automobile batteries like to be charged at just a couple of amps, for a few days after being diminished.
( If you think in fairies, attempt some kind of renewal.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Uncertain the precise design, I will try to get the identifiers Mond when I eliminate it from the cars and truck. The charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is utilized for trickle charging, it does control the present output to the needs of the battery.
I think it to be an extremely soft water treated with fluoride. Actually you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I've discovered that the Autocraft batteries are offered at Advance Vehicle Parts as their brand. They presently offer a Gold and Silver variation no Titanium.
I've now read that different manufacturers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Vehicle Parts because no one mfg can produce sufficient to supply them - how to recondition a battery at home. But that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern United States area. Johnson Controls ought to have it's name on the battery in concern. Also I learnt they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't revive the battery I may make a project out of reducing the effects of the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and design of it. Craig - This is exactly why we are going over batteries. I took a look at the link to the water report. Regrettably the report is not a real report on the chemical structure of the water, more of a PR exercise on lead, and so on.
What I would have an interest in is to understand what the alloy remains in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to inform by methods of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is fairly brittle. Lead-calcium tends to be more flexible. The unfavorable grids are bound to be lead-calcium (how to recondition a battery).
Count the number of times you flex and correct prior to it snaps. I have done this myself sometimes. Antimony stops working well prior to calcium. The difference is about three times. If the producer used diamond expanded lead sheet, all bets are off. However I would be really shocked. The separators are extremely essential components.
You may like to ascertain if the separators are adhering to the negatives, as if lead worked its way into the pores from the negatives. That signifies overcharging. The condition of the positives is critically essential (recondition car battery for sale). I suspect you will find the grids rusted away in places and active product has fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has actually been disconnected for a long period of time. A sign of grid rust. I question you will discover more than an irrelevant quantity of sulfate. I reside in haiti and everyone here has batteries and inverters in our houses. i just discovered that they are utilizing Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to correct this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The response in the battery is two-fold. A few of the lead in the plates will enter into service as lead chloride. Then the chloride is offered off as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have happened by now. If the smell of chlorine has actually gone and the batteries still work successfully, they will continue working. That is all there is to it. Rather use cleansed water - in an emergency, tap water. Hi Just how much water for liquifying 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have actually a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not save more energy.
tanks Hey, did you people ever become aware of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (certainly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the phase of explore it. I'm rather sure it's not a placebo, determined with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery appears to charge a lot cooler (depending upon concentration of it in each cell).
Simply thought it interesting and wan na share with you guys. Afdhal - Yes. I comprised numerous suspensions based upon both conductive activated and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. Some of the mixtures just settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does calm down at the bottom, the trick is to include it simply after the battery charged up till it gassing intensely, that method, it will stir the electrolyte, preserving the suspension. Providing it a chance convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering the plates, increasing active area, lowering internal impedance.
Yup, the disadvantage of it is that it just can be usage when, however hey, it's better than nothing, right? Afdhal - I attempted a number of proprietary emulsifying agents to to keep the carbon suspended. Many did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid but one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - reconditioning old battery.
I had a various goal - what is battery reconditioning. Jorge- my experience with ingredients is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a total wild-goose chase & is even harmful to battery- the recommended level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the amount mentioned by the poster must have been a joke. To dissolve 1 teaspoon, put in a container with cover, include 15 ml water, shake till dissolved then pour into each cell.
Bevan - Have you attempted sodium sulfate? I once make a small battery out of small 1cm lead plates submerged in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, sodium sulfate, and copper sulfate. Obviously it gets weaker when aside from HSO4 being utilized, but the outcome is: * HSO4 being the strongest, slowest to charge, likewise, the plates seems to be deteriorated quite quick. * MgSO4 the look of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates in complete charge-discharge cycle is decreased. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, however also the weakest. * CuSO4 triggers the unfavorable plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I question if NaSO4 would indicates much faster charging in real battery Now, the only sulfate I miss would be cadmium sulfate, I can't discover cheap source of it yet. Thus the carbon-additive experiment. All - I likewise tried utilizing pencil 'lead' as my carbon for unfavorable electrode (is it okay to recondition a car battery with it still connected). It has the greatest brief peak discharge existing.