You might like to share the name of the battery, type and search for an identification number, anything to assist recognize it. Then we could attempt to speak with the maker, discover exactly what type of innovation. Not all batteries are the same. You did not offer information of the type of water you utilized.
I would guess your battery has actually lost most of the active material from its plates. Charging at 10s of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have actually leaded through. A shorted cell. Try examining the acid SG. Auto batteries like to be charged at just a number of amps, for a couple of days after being diminished.
( If you think in fairies, attempt some sort of rejuvenation.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Not sure the exact model, I will try to get the identifiers Mond when I remove it from the vehicle. The charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is utilized for trickle charging, it does control the existing output to the needs of the battery.
I believe it to be a really soft water treated with fluoride. Really you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I've learnt that the Autocraft batteries are sold at Advance Vehicle Parts as their brand. They currently sell a Gold and Silver variation no Titanium.
I've now read that different manufacturers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Car Components due to the fact that nobody mfg can produce sufficient to provide them - how do you recondition a battery. But that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern US region. Johnson Controls should have it's name on the battery in question. Likewise I learnt they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't revive the battery I might make a project out of reducing the effects of the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and design of it. Craig - This is precisely why we are going over batteries. I looked at the link to the water report. Regrettably the report is not a true report on the chemical composition of the water, more of a PR workout on lead, etc.
What I would have an interest in is to know what the alloy remains in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to tell by means of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is fairly fragile. Lead-calcium tends to be more malleable. The unfavorable grids are bound to be lead-calcium (recondition dead battery).
Count the number of times you flex and correct the alignment of before it snaps. I have done this myself numerous times. Antimony stops working well before calcium. The difference has to do with 3 times. If the producer used diamond broadened lead sheet, all bets are off. But I would be extremely shocked. The separators are really crucial components.
You may like to establish if the separators are adhering to the negatives, as if lead worked its way into the pores from the negatives. That suggests overcharging. The condition of the positives is seriously important (battery reconditioning). I think you will find the grids rusted away in locations and active material has fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has actually been disconnected for a long period of time. An indication of grid deterioration. I question you will find more than an irrelevant amount of sulfate. I reside in haiti and everybody here has batteries and inverters in our houses. i just learnt that they are using Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to fix this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The response in the battery is two-fold. Some of the lead in the plates will enter into solution as lead chloride. Then the chloride is given off as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have actually happened by now. If the odor of chlorine has gone and the batteries still work effectively, they will continue working. That is all there is to it. Rather use purified water - in an emergency situation, faucet water. Hello Just how much water for dissolving 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have actually a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not conserve more energy.
tanks Hey, did you people ever heard of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (clearly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the stage of exploring with it. I'm rather sure it's not a placebo, measured with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery appears to charge a lot cooler (depending on concentration of it in each cell).
Simply believed it interesting and wan na share with you guys. Afdhal - Yes. I comprised various suspensions based on both conductive activated and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. A few of the mixes simply settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle down at the bottom, the trick is to include it just after the battery charged up till it gassing intensely, that method, it will stir the electrolyte, preserving the suspension. Giving it a chance convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, concealing the plates, increasing active area, lowering internal impedance.
Yup, the downside of it is that it just can be usage when, however hey, it's much better than absolutely nothing, right? Afdhal - I tried a variety of exclusive emulsifying agents to to keep the carbon suspended. The majority of did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid but one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - how to reconditioning car battery.
I had a different goal - how do you recondition a battery. Jorge- my experience with ingredients is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a complete waste of time & is even hazardous to battery- the advised level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the quantity stated by the poster must have been a joke. To liquify 1 teaspoon, put in a container with cover, include 15 ml water, shake till dissolved then pour into each cell.
Bevan - Have you tried salt sulfate? I when make a small battery out of little 1cm lead plates submerged in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, salt sulfate, and copper sulfate. Of course it gets weaker when other than HSO4 being utilized, however the outcome is: * HSO4 being the strongest, slowest to charge, also, the plates seems to be deteriorated quite quickly. * MgSO4 the appearance of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates completely charge-discharge cycle is reduced. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, however likewise the weakest. * CuSO4 triggers the negative plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I question if NaSO4 would implies quicker charging in real battery Now, the only sulfate I miss out on would be cadmium sulfate, I can't discover inexpensive source of it yet. Thus the carbon-additive experiment. All - I likewise attempted using pencil 'lead' as my carbon for negative electrode (recondition dead battery). It has the greatest short peak discharge current.