You might like to share the name of the battery, type and search for an identification number, anything to assist recognize it. Then we could attempt to speak to the maker, learn exactly what type of technology. Not all batteries are the very same. You did not give information of the type of water you utilized.
I would think your battery has actually lost the majority of the active product from its plates. Charging at tens of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have leaded through. A shorted cell. Attempt inspecting the acid SG. Automobile batteries like to be charged at just a couple of amps, for a couple of days after being run down.
( If you think in fairies, attempt some sort of renewal.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Unsure the exact model, I will try to get the identifiers Mond when I remove it from the automobile. The battery charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is used for drip charging, it does control the current output to the needs of the battery.
I believe it to be a really soft water treated with fluoride. In fact you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I have actually found out that the Autocraft batteries are offered at Advance Automobile Parts as their brand. They presently sell a Gold and Silver version no Titanium.
I've now read that numerous manufacturers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Auto Components due to the fact that no one mfg can produce sufficient to supply them - reconditioning car battery. But that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern United States area. Johnson Controls ought to have it's name on the battery in concern. Also I found out they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't revive the battery I may make a job out of reducing the effects of the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and design of it. Craig - This is specifically why we are going over batteries. I looked at the link to the water report. Unfortunately the report is not a true report on the chemical composition of the water, more of a PR workout on lead, and so on.
What I would have an interest in is to understand what the alloy remains in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to inform by methods of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is relatively brittle. Lead-calcium tends to be more malleable. The negative grids are bound to be lead-calcium (reconditioning a battery).
Count the variety of times you flex and align before it snaps. I have done this myself often times. Antimony stops working well before calcium. The difference is about three times. If the maker used diamond expanded lead sheet, all bets are off. But I would be really shocked. The separators are really essential elements.
You might like to establish if the separators are sticking to the negatives, as if lead worked its way into the pores from the negatives. That suggests overcharging. The condition of the positives is critically essential (diy recondition car battery). I suspect you will discover the grids rusted away in locations and active product has actually fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has been disconnected for a long period of time. A sign of grid deterioration. I doubt you will discover more than an irrelevant quantity of sulfate. I reside in haiti and everybody here has batteries and inverters in our homes. i just discovered out that they are utilizing Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to fix this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The reaction in the battery is two-fold. A few of the lead in the plates will enter into solution as lead chloride. Then the chloride is emitted as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have happened by now. If the smell of chlorine has actually gone and the batteries still work effectively, they will carry on working. That is all there is to it. Rather utilize cleansed water - in an emergency, faucet water. Hey there How much water for dissolving 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not save more energy.
tanks Hey, did you men ever heard of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (obviously) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the phase of try out it. I'm quite sure it's not a placebo, determined with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery appears to charge a lot cooler (depending upon concentration of it in each cell).
Simply thought it interesting and wan na show you people. Afdhal - Yes. I made up different suspensions based upon both conductive activated and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. Some of the mixtures just settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle at the bottom, the trick is to include it just after the battery charged up until it gassing vigorously, that method, it will stir the electrolyte, keeping the suspension. Offering it an opportunity convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering up the plates, increasing active surface area, lowering internal impedance.
Yup, the downside of it is that it only can be use when, but hey, it's much better than absolutely nothing, right? Afdhal - I tried a variety of proprietary emulsifying agents to to keep the carbon suspended. Most did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid however one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - how to recondition a battery at home.
I had a different objective - how do you recondition a battery. Jorge- my experience with additives is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a total wild-goose chase & is even hazardous to battery- the suggested level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the amount mentioned by the poster should have been a joke. To dissolve 1 teaspoon, put in a jar with cover, include 15 ml water, shake till dissolved then put into each cell.
Bevan - Have you attempted salt sulfate? I when make a small battery out of small 1cm lead plates submerged in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, sodium sulfate, and copper sulfate. Obviously it gets weaker when other than HSO4 being utilized, however the outcome is: * HSO4 being the strongest, slowest to charge, also, the plates seems to be worn down rather quickly. * MgSO4 the look of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates in complete charge-discharge cycle is decreased. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, however likewise the weakest. * CuSO4 triggers the unfavorable plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I question if NaSO4 would implies quicker charging in real battery Now, the only sulfate I miss out on would be cadmium sulfate, I can't find low-cost source of it yet. Thus the carbon-additive experiment. All - I also attempted utilizing pencil 'lead' as my carbon for unfavorable electrode (reconditioning battery). It has the highest short peak discharge existing.