You may like to share the name of the battery, type and try to find an identification number, anything to help determine it. Then we might attempt to speak with the producer, discover out exactly what type of innovation. Not all batteries are the very same. You did not give information of the kind of water you used.
I would guess your battery has actually lost the majority of the active product from its plates. Charging at 10s of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have actually leaded through. A shorted cell. Try examining the acid SG. Auto batteries like to be charged at just a number of amps, for a few days after being diminished.
( If you believe in fairies, try some sort of renewal.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Uncertain the exact design, I will attempt to get the identifiers Mond when I eliminate it from the vehicle. The battery charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is used for drip charging, it does control the current output to the requirements of the battery.
I think it to be a very soft water treated with fluoride. In fact you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I have actually found out that the Autocraft batteries are cost Advance Vehicle Components as their brand name. They presently sell a Gold and Silver variation no Titanium.
I've now read that various producers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Vehicle Components since no one mfg can produce enough to provide them - car battery reconditioning. However that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern US area. Johnson Controls should have it's name on the battery in concern. Also I learnt they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't revive the battery I may make a project out of reducing the effects of the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and design of it. Craig - This is exactly why we are going over batteries. I took a look at the link to the water report. Regrettably the report is not a true report on the chemical composition of the water, more of a PR workout on lead, etc.
What I would be interested in is to know what the alloy remains in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to tell by methods of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is reasonably fragile. Lead-calcium tends to be more malleable. The negative grids are bound to be lead-calcium (is it okay to recondition a car battery with it still connected).
Count the number of times you bend and correct before it snaps. I have done this myself lot of times. Antimony fails well prior to calcium. The difference is about three times. If the maker utilized diamond broadened lead sheet, all bets are off. But I would be very stunned. The separators are extremely essential components.
You may like to establish if the separators are adhering to the negatives, as if lead worked its method into the pores from the negatives. That suggests overcharging. The condition of the positives is critically essential (reconditioning a battery). I believe you will find the grids rusted away in places and active material has actually fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has actually been detached for a very long time. An indication of grid rust. I doubt you will discover more than an insignificant quantity of sulfate. I reside in haiti and everyone here has batteries and inverters in our homes. i simply discovered out that they are utilizing Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to correct this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The response in the battery is two-fold. A few of the lead in the plates will enter into service as lead chloride. Then the chloride is produced as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have actually occurred by now. If the odor of chlorine has actually gone and the batteries still work effectively, they will carry on working. That is all there is to it. Rather utilize cleansed water - in an emergency situation, tap water. Hi Just how much water for liquifying 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not save more energy.
tanks Hey, did you guys ever become aware of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (undoubtedly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the stage of explore it. I'm quite sure it's not a placebo, determined with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery seems to charge a lot cooler (depending on concentration of it in each cell).
Simply thought it interesting and wan na show you people. Afdhal - Yes. I comprised numerous suspensions based on both conductive triggered and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. A few of the mixtures simply settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle at the bottom, the trick is to add it simply after the battery charged up till it gassing strongly, that method, it will stir the electrolyte, maintaining the suspension. Offering it a chance convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering up the plates, increasing active surface location, minimizing internal impedance.
Yup, the downside of it is that it just can be usage as soon as, however hey, it's better than absolutely nothing, right? Afdhal - I attempted a variety of exclusive emulsifying agents to to keep the carbon suspended. The majority of did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid however one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - how do you recondition a dead battery.
I had a different objective - automotive battery reconditioning. Jorge- my experience with ingredients is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a total wild-goose chase & is even harmful to battery- the suggested level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the quantity stated by the poster needs to have been a joke. To liquify 1 teaspoon, put in a jar with lid, include 15 ml water, shake till dissolved then pour into each cell.
Bevan - Have you attempted salt sulfate? I when make a little battery out of small 1cm lead plates immersed in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, sodium sulfate, and copper sulfate. Of course it gets weaker when besides HSO4 being used, however the result is: * HSO4 being the greatest, slowest to charge, also, the plates seems to be worn down quite quickly. * MgSO4 the look of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates completely charge-discharge cycle is minimized. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, however also the weakest. * CuSO4 causes the unfavorable plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I wonder if NaSO4 would implies much faster charging in genuine battery Now, the only sulfate I miss out on would be cadmium sulfate, I can't discover low-cost source of it yet. Hence the carbon-additive experiment. All - I also tried using pencil 'lead' as my carbon for unfavorable electrode (materials needed to recondition car battery). It has the highest short peak discharge existing.