You might like to share the name of the battery, type and search for an identification number, anything to help determine it. Then we could attempt to talk to the maker, discover out precisely what sort of technology. Not all batteries are the exact same. You did not offer information of the type of water you used.
I would think your battery has lost the majority of the active material from its plates. Charging at 10s of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have leaded through. A shorted cell. Try checking the acid SG. Vehicle batteries like to be charged at simply a number of amps, for a few days after being run down.
( If you believe in fairies, attempt some kind of restoration.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Unsure the exact design, I will attempt to get the identifiers Mond when I remove it from the car. The charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is utilized for trickle charging, it does control the existing output to the requirements of the battery.
I think it to be a really soft water treated with fluoride. Really you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I've found out that the Autocraft batteries are offered at Advance Vehicle Parts as their brand name. They presently sell a Gold and Silver variation no Titanium.
I've now read that different producers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Vehicle Parts since no one mfg can produce adequate to provide them - recondition car battery for sale. But that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern United States area. Johnson Controls must have it's name on the battery in concern. Also I discovered out they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't restore the battery I might make a job out of neutralizing the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and design of it. Craig - This is specifically why we are discussing batteries. I looked at the link to the water report. Sadly the report is not a true report on the chemical composition of the water, more of a PR workout on lead, etc.
What I would be interested in is to understand what the alloy is in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to inform by ways of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is reasonably breakable. Lead-calcium tends to be more flexible. The unfavorable grids are bound to be lead-calcium (how to recondition a 12 volt battery).
Count the variety of times you flex and align before it snaps. I have actually done this myself numerous times. Antimony stops working well prior to calcium. The difference is about three times. If the manufacturer used diamond expanded lead sheet, all bets are off. But I would be very shocked. The separators are really essential parts.
You might like to ascertain if the separators are sticking to the negatives, as if lead worked its method into the pores from the negatives. That suggests overcharging. The condition of the positives is critically crucial (battery reconditioning com). I presume you will find the grids corroded away in locations and active material has actually fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has actually been disconnected for a very long time. An indication of grid rust. I question you will discover more than an irrelevant amount of sulfate. I reside in haiti and everyone here has batteries and inverters in our houses. i simply discovered that they are using Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to fix this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The response in the battery is two-fold. A few of the lead in the plates will enter into solution as lead chloride. Then the chloride is produced as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have actually occurred by now. If the odor of chlorine has gone and the batteries still work successfully, they will continue working. That is all there is to it. Rather utilize cleansed water - in an emergency situation, tap water. Hi Just how much water for dissolving 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have actually a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not save more energy.
tanks Hey, did you people ever become aware of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (clearly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the stage of try out it. I'm quite sure it's not a placebo, determined with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery appears to charge a lot cooler (depending upon concentration of it in each cell).
Just believed it intriguing and wan na show you men. Afdhal - Yes. I made up various suspensions based on both conductive triggered and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. Some of the mixes just settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle down at the bottom, the trick is to include it just after the battery charged up until it gassing intensely, that way, it will stir the electrolyte, preserving the suspension. Giving it an opportunity convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering the plates, increasing active surface location, minimizing internal impedance.
Yup, the downside of it is that it just can be use when, however hey, it's much better than nothing, right? Afdhal - I tried a number of exclusive emulsifying representatives to to keep the carbon suspended. A lot of did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid but one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - reconditioning old battery.
I had a various objective - recondition battery. Jorge- my experience with additives is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a complete waste of time & is even damaging to battery- the advised level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the quantity mentioned by the poster needs to have been a joke. To dissolve 1 teaspoon, put in a container with lid, include 15 ml water, shake till dissolved then pour into each cell.
Bevan - Have you attempted salt sulfate? I as soon as make a little battery out of little 1cm lead plates submerged in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, salt sulfate, and copper sulfate. Of course it gets weaker when other than HSO4 being used, but the outcome is: * HSO4 being the greatest, slowest to charge, likewise, the plates appears to be eroded quite fast. * MgSO4 the appearance of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates completely charge-discharge cycle is reduced. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, but likewise the weakest. * CuSO4 triggers the negative plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I question if NaSO4 would suggests much faster charging in real battery Now, the only sulfate I miss out on would be cadmium sulfate, I can't discover cheap source of it yet. Hence the carbon-additive experiment. All - I also tried utilizing pencil 'lead' as my carbon for negative electrode (how do you recondition a car battery). It has the highest short peak discharge existing.