You might like to share the name of the battery, type and try to find a serial number, anything to help recognize it. Then we might try to speak to the producer, learn precisely what kind of innovation. Not all batteries are the very same. You did not provide information of the type of water you utilized.
I would guess your battery has actually lost most of the active product from its plates. Charging at 10s of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have actually leaded through. A shorted cell. Attempt inspecting the acid SG. Auto batteries like to be charged at simply a number of amps, for a couple of days after being run down.
( If you believe in fairies, try some kind of restoration.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Uncertain the precise design, I will attempt to get the identifiers Mond when I eliminate it from the automobile. The battery charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is used for drip charging, it does manage the existing output to the needs of the battery.
I believe it to be an extremely soft water treated with fluoride. In fact you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I've found out that the Autocraft batteries are cost Advance Auto Components as their brand name. They currently sell a Gold and Silver variation no Titanium.
I've now read that various manufacturers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Car Parts due to the fact that nobody mfg can produce adequate to provide them - battery recondition. But that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern United States area. Johnson Controls must have it's name on the battery in concern. Likewise I discovered they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't restore the battery I may make a task out of reducing the effects of the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and design of it. Craig - This is precisely why we are discussing batteries. I looked at the link to the water report. Regrettably the report is not a real report on the chemical composition of the water, more of a PR exercise on lead, and so on.
What I would have an interest in is to understand what the alloy remains in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to tell by ways of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is relatively fragile. Lead-calcium tends to be more malleable. The negative grids are bound to be lead-calcium (recondition car battery for sale).
Count the variety of times you flex and align prior to it snaps. I have done this myself sometimes. Antimony fails well prior to calcium. The difference is about 3 times. If the manufacturer used diamond broadened lead sheet, all bets are off. However I would be really shocked. The separators are very crucial elements.
You might like to determine if the separators are adhering to the negatives, as if lead worked its method into the pores from the negatives. That is an indication of overcharging. The condition of the positives is seriously crucial (battery recondition). I presume you will discover the grids corroded away in places and active material has fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has been detached for a long period of time. An indication of grid deterioration. I question you will find more than an unimportant quantity of sulfate. I live in haiti and everybody here has batteries and inverters in our homes. i simply discovered that they are utilizing Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to correct this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The response in the battery is two-fold. A few of the lead in the plates will enter into solution as lead chloride. Then the chloride is emitted as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have actually taken place by now. If the smell of chlorine has gone and the batteries still work efficiently, they will continue working. That is all there is to it. Rather utilize purified water - in an emergency, faucet water. Hey there How much water for dissolving 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have actually a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not save more energy.
tanks Hey, did you men ever heard of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (certainly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the stage of try out it. I'm rather sure it's not a placebo, determined with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery appears to charge a lot cooler (depending upon concentration of it in each cell).
Just believed it interesting and wan na show you guys. Afdhal - Yes. I comprised different suspensions based upon both conductive triggered and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. A few of the mixtures simply settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does calm down at the bottom, the trick is to include it simply after the battery charged up until it gassing vigorously, that way, it will stir the electrolyte, preserving the suspension. Giving it an opportunity convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering the plates, increasing active surface area, lowering internal impedance.
Yup, the disadvantage of it is that it only can be usage when, however hey, it's much better than nothing, right? Afdhal - I attempted a variety of exclusive emulsifying representatives to to keep the carbon suspended. Many did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid however one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - battery reconditioning com.
I had a different goal - reconditioning battery. Jorge- my experience with additives is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a total wild-goose chase & is even damaging to battery- the suggested level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the amount mentioned by the poster needs to have been a joke. To dissolve 1 teaspoon, put in a container with cover, include 15 ml water, shake till liquified then put into each cell.
Bevan - Have you attempted sodium sulfate? I once make a little battery out of small 1cm lead plates immersed in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, sodium sulfate, and copper sulfate. Obviously it gets weaker when besides HSO4 being used, but the outcome is: * HSO4 being the strongest, slowest to charge, likewise, the plates appears to be eroded quite fast. * MgSO4 the appearance of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates in full charge-discharge cycle is lowered. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, but also the weakest. * CuSO4 causes the unfavorable plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I question if NaSO4 would indicates quicker charging in real battery Now, the only sulfate I miss would be cadmium sulfate, I can't discover inexpensive source of it yet. Thus the carbon-additive experiment. All - I likewise attempted using pencil 'lead' as my carbon for unfavorable electrode (how to recondition a battery). It has the highest brief peak discharge present.