You might like to share the name of the battery, type and try to find an identification number, anything to assist recognize it. Then we could attempt to speak with the producer, discover precisely what sort of technology. Not all batteries are the exact same. You did not offer details of the type of water you used.
I would think your battery has lost many of the active material from its plates. Charging at 10s of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have leaded through. A shorted cell. Attempt checking the acid SG. Auto batteries like to be charged at simply a number of amps, for a couple of days after being run down.
( If you think in fairies, try some type of renewal.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Uncertain the specific design, I will try to get the identifiers Mond when I remove it from the car. The charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is used for drip charging, it does control the existing output to the needs of the battery.
I think it to be a really soft water treated with fluoride. Actually you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I have actually discovered that the Autocraft batteries are cost Advance Vehicle Parts as their brand name. They currently sell a Gold and Silver variation no Titanium.
I've now check out that various makers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Vehicle Parts due to the fact that no one mfg can produce sufficient to provide them - recondition battery. However that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern United States region. Johnson Controls must have it's name on the battery in question. Likewise I learnt they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't restore the battery I might make a project out of neutralizing the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and design of it. Craig - This is specifically why we are going over batteries. I looked at the link to the water report. Unfortunately the report is not a real report on the chemical structure of the water, more of a PR workout on lead, etc.
What I would have an interest in is to understand what the alloy is in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to tell by ways of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is fairly fragile. Lead-calcium tends to be more flexible. The unfavorable grids are bound to be lead-calcium (how to reconditioning car battery).
Count the variety of times you bend and correct before it snaps. I have actually done this myself lot of times. Antimony stops working well before calcium. The distinction has to do with 3 times. If the manufacturer utilized diamond broadened lead sheet, all bets are off. But I would be extremely surprised. The separators are really important parts.
You may like to establish if the separators are sticking to the negatives, as if lead worked its way into the pores from the negatives. That signifies overcharging. The condition of the positives is seriously crucial (how to recondition any battery). I believe you will discover the grids corroded away in locations and active product has fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has actually been detached for a very long time. A sign of grid rust. I question you will discover more than an irrelevant amount of sulfate. I reside in haiti and everybody here has batteries and inverters in our houses. i simply discovered that they are utilizing Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to correct this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The response in the battery is two-fold. A few of the lead in the plates will enter into service as lead chloride. Then the chloride is produced as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have occurred by now. If the odor of chlorine has gone and the batteries still work successfully, they will carry on working. That is all there is to it. Rather use purified water - in an emergency, tap water. Hello How much water for liquifying 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not save more energy.
tanks Hey, did you guys ever become aware of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (clearly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the stage of try out it. I'm quite sure it's not a placebo, determined with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery appears to charge a lot cooler (depending on concentration of it in each cell).
Simply thought it fascinating and wan na show you men. Afdhal - Yes. I made up different suspensions based upon both conductive activated and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. A few of the mixtures simply settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle down at the bottom, the trick is to include it just after the battery charged up till it gassing strongly, that way, it will stir the electrolyte, preserving the suspension. Giving it a chance convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering the plates, increasing active area, lowering internal impedance.
Yup, the drawback of it is that it only can be usage as soon as, but hey, it's better than nothing, right? Afdhal - I tried a number of exclusive emulsifying agents to to keep the carbon suspended. Many did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid but one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - battery reconditioning.
I had a different objective - how to recondition a wore out battery. Jorge- my experience with ingredients is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a complete wild-goose chase & is even hazardous to battery- the advised level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the quantity mentioned by the poster needs to have been a joke. To liquify 1 teaspoon, put in a container with lid, include 15 ml water, shake till dissolved then pour into each cell.
Bevan - Have you attempted sodium sulfate? I once make a little battery out of little 1cm lead plates submerged in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, sodium sulfate, and copper sulfate. Of course it gets weaker when aside from HSO4 being utilized, but the result is: * HSO4 being the greatest, slowest to charge, also, the plates appears to be deteriorated rather quick. * MgSO4 the appearance of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates completely charge-discharge cycle is minimized. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, but likewise the weakest. * CuSO4 triggers the unfavorable plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I wonder if NaSO4 would implies quicker charging in genuine battery Now, the only sulfate I miss would be cadmium sulfate, I can't find cheap source of it yet. Hence the carbon-additive experiment. All - I likewise attempted using pencil 'lead' as my carbon for unfavorable electrode (how to recondition a battery). It has the highest short peak discharge present.