You might like to share the name of the battery, type and look for a serial number, anything to help recognize it. Then we could attempt to talk to the maker, discover out exactly what kind of innovation. Not all batteries are the exact same. You did not give details of the type of water you utilized.
I would think your battery has actually lost the majority of the active material from its plates. Charging at tens of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have leaded through. A shorted cell. Try checking the acid SG. Car batteries like to be charged at simply a couple of amps, for a couple of days after being run down.
( If you think in fairies, attempt some type of renewal.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Not sure the precise model, I will try to get the identifiers Mond when I remove it from the automobile. The charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is utilized for drip charging, it does control the existing output to the requirements of the battery.
I think it to be an extremely soft water treated with fluoride. In fact you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I have actually discovered out that the Autocraft batteries are offered at Advance Auto Components as their brand. They currently sell a Gold and Silver variation no Titanium.
I have actually now check out that different manufacturers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Automobile Components because nobody mfg can produce enough to supply them - recondition a battery. But that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern United States region. Johnson Controls should have it's name on the battery in concern. Also I learnt they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't revive the battery I might make a task out of neutralizing the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and style of it. Craig - This is exactly why we are going over batteries. I took a look at the link to the water report. Regrettably the report is not a real report on the chemical structure of the water, more of a PR workout on lead, and so on.
What I would have an interest in is to know what the alloy remains in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to inform by ways of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is fairly breakable. Lead-calcium tends to be more malleable. The negative grids are bound to be lead-calcium (how to recondition a car battery).
Count the number of times you flex and correct prior to it snaps. I have actually done this myself many times. Antimony stops working well prior to calcium. The distinction has to do with three times. If the producer used diamond broadened lead sheet, all bets are off. However I would be very stunned. The separators are very crucial elements.
You may like to determine if the separators are sticking to the negatives, as if lead worked its method into the pores from the negatives. That suggests overcharging. The condition of the positives is seriously essential (how to recondition a 12v battery). I think you will discover the grids corroded away in places and active material has actually fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has actually been disconnected for a very long time. An indication of grid rust. I doubt you will find more than an unimportant amount of sulfate. I live in haiti and everybody here has batteries and inverters in our houses. i just learnt that they are utilizing Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to correct this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The reaction in the battery is two-fold. A few of the lead in the plates will go into solution as lead chloride. Then the chloride is emitted as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have actually occurred by now. If the smell of chlorine has actually gone and the batteries still work successfully, they will continue working. That is all there is to it. Rather use purified water - in an emergency, tap water. Hi Just how much water for dissolving 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have actually a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not conserve more energy.
tanks Hey, did you people ever become aware of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (clearly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the phase of try out it. I'm rather sure it's not a placebo, measured with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery appears to charge a lot cooler (depending on concentration of it in each cell).
Simply thought it fascinating and wan na show you men. Afdhal - Yes. I comprised various suspensions based upon both conductive activated and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. Some of the mixtures simply settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does calm down at the bottom, the technique is to add it simply after the battery charged up until it gassing strongly, that way, it will stir the electrolyte, preserving the suspension. Giving it an opportunity convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering the plates, increasing active surface area, minimizing internal impedance.
Yup, the drawback of it is that it only can be usage once, however hey, it's much better than absolutely nothing, right? Afdhal - I tried a variety of exclusive emulsifying agents to to keep the carbon suspended. The majority of did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid but one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - how to recondition an old battery.
I had a different objective - recondition a car battery. Jorge- my experience with ingredients is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a complete waste of time & is even harmful to battery- the advised level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the amount mentioned by the poster should have been a joke. To dissolve 1 teaspoon, put in a container with cover, include 15 ml water, shake till dissolved then put into each cell.
Bevan - Have you tried salt sulfate? I as soon as make a small battery out of little 1cm lead plates immersed in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, salt sulfate, and copper sulfate. Naturally it gets weaker when aside from HSO4 being utilized, however the result is: * HSO4 being the strongest, slowest to charge, likewise, the plates appears to be worn down quite fast. * MgSO4 the appearance of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates completely charge-discharge cycle is decreased. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, but also the weakest. * CuSO4 triggers the negative plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I wonder if NaSO4 would implies faster charging in real battery Now, the only sulfate I miss out on would be cadmium sulfate, I can't find low-cost source of it yet. Hence the carbon-additive experiment. All - I also tried utilizing pencil 'lead' as my carbon for unfavorable electrode (reconditioning old battery). It has the greatest brief peak discharge current.