You may like to share the name of the battery, type and try to find an identification number, anything to help recognize it. Then we might attempt to speak with the producer, learn precisely what kind of technology. Not all batteries are the exact same. You did not provide details of the kind of water you utilized.
I would guess your battery has actually lost the majority of the active material from its plates. Charging at tens of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have actually leaded through. A shorted cell. Try checking the acid SG. Car batteries like to be charged at just a number of amps, for a few days after being diminished.
( If you believe in fairies, try some kind of renewal.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Unsure the exact model, I will try to get the identifiers Mond when I eliminate it from the automobile. The battery charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is utilized for trickle charging, it does manage the existing output to the requirements of the battery.
I believe it to be an extremely soft water treated with fluoride. Really you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I've found out that the Autocraft batteries are sold at Advance Car Components as their brand name. They presently sell a Gold and Silver version no Titanium.
I've now check out that different manufacturers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Car Components because no one mfg can produce adequate to provide them - how do you recondition a car battery. But that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern US region. Johnson Controls need to have it's name on the battery in question. Also I discovered they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't revive the battery I might make a job out of reducing the effects of the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and design of it. Craig - This is exactly why we are going over batteries. I looked at the link to the water report. Sadly the report is not a true report on the chemical composition of the water, more of a PR exercise on lead, and so on.
What I would have an interest in is to know what the alloy is in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to tell by ways of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is fairly breakable. Lead-calcium tends to be more malleable. The negative grids are bound to be lead-calcium (how to recondition a car battery).
Count the variety of times you flex and correct the alignment of before it snaps. I have done this myself often times. Antimony stops working well before calcium. The distinction has to do with 3 times. If the maker used diamond broadened lead sheet, all bets are off. But I would be really stunned. The separators are very crucial parts.
You may like to ascertain if the separators are adhering to the negatives, as if lead worked its way into the pores from the negatives. That signifies overcharging. The condition of the positives is seriously important (battery recondition). I suspect you will find the grids rusted away in places and active material has actually fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has been disconnected for a long period of time. An indication of grid rust. I question you will find more than an unimportant quantity of sulfate. I reside in haiti and everybody here has batteries and inverters in our homes. i just discovered that they are utilizing Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to fix this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The response in the battery is two-fold. Some of the lead in the plates will go into solution as lead chloride. Then the chloride is released as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have occurred by now. If the smell of chlorine has actually gone and the batteries still work efficiently, they will continue working. That is all there is to it. Rather use cleansed water - in an emergency situation, faucet water. Hello How much water for liquifying 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have actually a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not save more energy.
tanks Hey, did you people ever heard of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (clearly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the stage of explore it. I'm rather sure it's not a placebo, measured with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery appears to charge a lot cooler (depending upon concentration of it in each cell).
Just believed it fascinating and wan na show you guys. Afdhal - Yes. I made up various suspensions based on both conductive activated and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. Some of the mixtures simply settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle down at the bottom, the trick is to include it simply after the battery charged up until it gassing vigorously, that way, it will stir the electrolyte, preserving the suspension. Offering it a possibility convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, concealing the plates, increasing active surface location, decreasing internal impedance.
Yup, the disadvantage of it is that it just can be usage when, however hey, it's much better than nothing, right? Afdhal - I attempted a variety of proprietary emulsifying representatives to to keep the carbon suspended. The majority of did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid but one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - how to recondition a dead car battery.
I had a different goal - how do you recondition a dead car battery. Jorge- my experience with ingredients is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a complete waste of time & is even harmful to battery- the recommended level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the quantity stated by the poster needs to have been a joke. To dissolve 1 teaspoon, put in a container with cover, add 15 ml water, shake till dissolved then put into each cell.
Bevan - Have you tried sodium sulfate? I once make a small battery out of little 1cm lead plates submerged in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, salt sulfate, and copper sulfate. Naturally it gets weaker when aside from HSO4 being utilized, but the result is: * HSO4 being the strongest, slowest to charge, likewise, the plates appears to be eroded quite quickly. * MgSO4 the appearance of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates in complete charge-discharge cycle is lowered. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, but also the weakest. * CuSO4 causes the unfavorable plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I question if NaSO4 would indicates much faster charging in genuine battery Now, the only sulfate I miss out on would be cadmium sulfate, I can't find low-cost source of it yet. Hence the carbon-additive experiment. All - I also attempted utilizing pencil 'lead' as my carbon for negative electrode (reconditioning old battery). It has the greatest short peak discharge present.