You may like to share the name of the battery, type and look for a serial number, anything to assist recognize it. Then we might attempt to talk with the manufacturer, learn precisely what kind of technology. Not all batteries are the same. You did not offer details of the kind of water you used.
I would guess your battery has lost many of the active product from its plates. Charging at 10s of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have actually leaded through. A shorted cell. Attempt checking the acid SG. Auto batteries like to be charged at simply a number of amps, for a few days after being diminished.
( If you think in fairies, try some type of rejuvenation.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Not exactly sure the precise design, I will attempt to get the identifiers Mond when I eliminate it from the automobile. The battery charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is utilized for trickle charging, it does control the present output to the requirements of the battery.
I think it to be a really soft water treated with fluoride. In fact you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I have actually found out that the Autocraft batteries are offered at Advance Auto Parts as their brand name. They currently offer a Gold and Silver variation no Titanium.
I've now check out that numerous makers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Auto Components since no one mfg can produce adequate to supply them - battery recondition. But that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern United States region. Johnson Controls need to have it's name on the battery in question. Also I discovered they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't revive the battery I might make a project out of reducing the effects of the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and style of it. Craig - This is precisely why we are talking about batteries. I looked at the link to the water report. Regrettably the report is not a true report on the chemical composition of the water, more of a PR workout on lead, etc.
What I would be interested in is to understand what the alloy remains in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to inform by ways of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is reasonably breakable. Lead-calcium tends to be more flexible. The unfavorable grids are bound to be lead-calcium (how to reconditioning car battery).
Count the variety of times you bend and correct the alignment of before it snaps. I have actually done this myself lot of times. Antimony fails well before calcium. The difference is about three times. If the manufacturer used diamond expanded lead sheet, all bets are off. But I would be very shocked. The separators are extremely important parts.
You may like to establish if the separators are sticking to the negatives, as if lead worked its method into the pores from the negatives. That is an indication of overcharging. The condition of the positives is seriously important (high frequency battery reconditioning). I presume you will discover the grids corroded away in locations and active product has fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has been disconnected for a very long time. An indication of grid deterioration. I doubt you will find more than an unimportant amount of sulfate. I live in haiti and everyone here has batteries and inverters in our homes. i simply discovered that they are using Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to fix this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The reaction in the battery is two-fold. Some of the lead in the plates will go into solution as lead chloride. Then the chloride is released as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have taken place by now. If the smell of chlorine has gone and the batteries still work successfully, they will continue working. That is all there is to it. Rather use purified water - in an emergency, faucet water. Hello Just how much water for dissolving 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have actually a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not save more energy.
tanks Hey, did you men ever heard of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (clearly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the phase of try out it. I'm quite sure it's not a placebo, determined with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery seems to charge a lot cooler (depending on concentration of it in each cell).
Simply thought it intriguing and wan na show you men. Afdhal - Yes. I made up numerous suspensions based upon both conductive triggered and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. A few of the mixes simply settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle down at the bottom, the trick is to include it just after the battery charged up until it gassing intensely, that method, it will stir the electrolyte, preserving the suspension. Providing it a possibility convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, concealing the plates, increasing active surface location, lowering internal impedance.
Yup, the disadvantage of it is that it just can be use once, but hey, it's much better than nothing, right? Afdhal - I attempted a number of proprietary emulsifying agents to to keep the carbon suspended. The majority of did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid however one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - diy recondition car battery.
I had a various objective - materials needed to recondition car battery. Jorge- my experience with additives is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a complete wild-goose chase & is even damaging to battery- the recommended level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the amount stated by the poster must have been a joke. To dissolve 1 teaspoon, put in a container with lid, include 15 ml water, shake till liquified then pour into each cell.
Bevan - Have you attempted sodium sulfate? I when make a small battery out of little 1cm lead plates immersed in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, salt sulfate, and copper sulfate. Naturally it gets weaker when other than HSO4 being utilized, but the result is: * HSO4 being the greatest, slowest to charge, also, the plates appears to be deteriorated rather quick. * MgSO4 the appearance of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates completely charge-discharge cycle is decreased. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, but also the weakest. * CuSO4 triggers the unfavorable plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I question if NaSO4 would suggests quicker charging in genuine battery Now, the only sulfate I miss out on would be cadmium sulfate, I can't find cheap source of it yet. For this reason the carbon-additive experiment. All - I likewise attempted using pencil 'lead' as my carbon for unfavorable electrode (recondition battery). It has the highest short peak discharge present.