You may like to share the name of the battery, type and try to find a serial number, anything to assist determine it. Then we might try to talk to the manufacturer, learn precisely what kind of innovation. Not all batteries are the same. You did not provide information of the kind of water you utilized.
I would think your battery has lost many of the active product from its plates. Charging at 10s of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have actually leaded through. A shorted cell. Attempt examining the acid SG. Vehicle batteries like to be charged at simply a couple of amps, for a couple of days after being run down.
( If you think in fairies, attempt some kind of renewal.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Not exactly sure the precise model, I will attempt to get the identifiers Mond when I remove it from the cars and truck. The battery charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is utilized for trickle charging, it does control the existing output to the needs of the battery.
I believe it to be a really soft water treated with fluoride. Really you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I've found out that the Autocraft batteries are offered at Advance Automobile Parts as their brand. They presently offer a Gold and Silver variation no Titanium.
I have actually now check out that various manufacturers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Car Parts since nobody mfg can produce sufficient to supply them - how do you recondition a dead battery. But that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern US region. Johnson Controls need to have it's name on the battery in concern. Also I found out they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't revive the battery I might make a job out of neutralizing the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and design of it. Craig - This is exactly why we are discussing batteries. I took a look at the link to the water report. Sadly the report is not a real report on the chemical composition of the water, more of a PR workout on lead, etc.
What I would be interested in is to know what the alloy remains in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to tell by methods of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is reasonably brittle. Lead-calcium tends to be more flexible. The negative grids are bound to be lead-calcium (how to recondition a car battery).
Count the number of times you bend and correct before it snaps. I have actually done this myself sometimes. Antimony fails well before calcium. The distinction is about three times. If the producer utilized diamond broadened lead sheet, all bets are off. However I would be very shocked. The separators are extremely essential components.
You may like to determine if the separators are sticking to the negatives, as if lead worked its method into the pores from the negatives. That suggests overcharging. The condition of the positives is seriously essential (do i need to charge car battery after battery recondition). I presume you will find the grids rusted away in locations and active product has actually fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has been detached for a long time. An indication of grid corrosion. I doubt you will discover more than an insignificant amount of sulfate. I live in haiti and everyone here has batteries and inverters in our houses. i simply learnt that they are using Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to correct this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The response in the battery is two-fold. Some of the lead in the plates will enter into option as lead chloride. Then the chloride is released as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have actually occurred by now. If the odor of chlorine has actually gone and the batteries still work efficiently, they will carry on working. That is all there is to it. Rather utilize purified water - in an emergency situation, faucet water. Hi How much water for dissolving 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not conserve more energy.
tanks Hey, did you people ever heard of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (undoubtedly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the stage of try out it. I'm rather sure it's not a placebo, determined with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery appears to charge a lot cooler (depending on concentration of it in each cell).
Simply thought it fascinating and wan na share with you people. Afdhal - Yes. I comprised different suspensions based on both conductive triggered and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. Some of the mixes just settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle down at the bottom, the technique is to add it simply after the battery charged up until it gassing vigorously, that method, it will stir the electrolyte, keeping the suspension. Offering it a chance convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering up the plates, increasing active surface area, reducing internal impedance.
Yup, the disadvantage of it is that it just can be usage when, however hey, it's better than nothing, right? Afdhal - I attempted a variety of proprietary emulsifying representatives to to keep the carbon suspended. The majority of did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid but one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - materials needed to recondition car battery.
I had a various goal - battery reconditioning equipment. Jorge- my experience with ingredients is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a complete waste of time & is even harmful to battery- the suggested level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the quantity specified by the poster must have been a joke. To liquify 1 teaspoon, put in a container with lid, add 15 ml water, shake till dissolved then pour into each cell.
Bevan - Have you attempted salt sulfate? I when make a small battery out of little 1cm lead plates immersed in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, sodium sulfate, and copper sulfate. Obviously it gets weaker when other than HSO4 being utilized, but the result is: * HSO4 being the strongest, slowest to charge, likewise, the plates seems to be eroded rather fast. * MgSO4 the look of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates completely charge-discharge cycle is lowered. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, but also the weakest. * CuSO4 triggers the unfavorable plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I question if NaSO4 would suggests faster charging in genuine battery Now, the only sulfate I miss out on would be cadmium sulfate, I can't find low-cost source of it yet. Thus the carbon-additive experiment. All - I likewise attempted utilizing pencil 'lead' as my carbon for unfavorable electrode (recondition old battery). It has the highest short peak discharge existing.