You may like to share the name of the battery, type and look for a serial number, anything to help recognize it. Then we might attempt to talk with the maker, learn exactly what type of technology. Not all batteries are the exact same. You did not provide information of the type of water you utilized.
I would think your battery has lost most of the active product from its plates. Charging at tens of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have actually leaded through. A shorted cell. Try inspecting the acid SG. Car batteries like to be charged at just a couple of amps, for a couple of days after being diminished.
( If you believe in fairies, attempt some type of restoration.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Unsure the precise design, I will try to get the identifiers Mond when I eliminate it from the automobile. The charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is used for drip charging, it does manage the present output to the requirements of the battery.
I think it to be an extremely soft water treated with fluoride. Really you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I have actually discovered that the Autocraft batteries are sold at Advance Car Parts as their brand. They currently offer a Gold and Silver version no Titanium.
I have actually now check out that different makers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Car Parts because no one mfg can produce enough to provide them - high frequency battery reconditioning. But that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern US region. Johnson Controls need to have it's name on the battery in concern. Likewise I discovered they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't revive the battery I may make a task out of reducing the effects of the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and style of it. Craig - This is specifically why we are talking about batteries. I looked at the link to the water report. Sadly the report is not a true report on the chemical composition of the water, more of a PR exercise on lead, and so on.
What I would be interested in is to understand what the alloy is in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to tell by ways of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is fairly fragile. Lead-calcium tends to be more malleable. The unfavorable grids are bound to be lead-calcium (how to recondition a 12v battery).
Count the number of times you flex and align prior to it snaps. I have done this myself sometimes. Antimony stops working well before calcium. The difference has to do with three times. If the manufacturer utilized diamond broadened lead sheet, all bets are off. But I would be extremely stunned. The separators are extremely important components.
You might like to determine if the separators are adhering to the negatives, as if lead worked its method into the pores from the negatives. That is a sign of overcharging. The condition of the positives is critically important (battery reconditioning com). I presume you will discover the grids corroded away in places and active material has fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has been detached for a long period of time. An indication of grid deterioration. I doubt you will find more than an insignificant quantity of sulfate. I reside in haiti and everyone here has batteries and inverters in our houses. i just discovered out that they are utilizing Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to remedy this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The reaction in the battery is two-fold. Some of the lead in the plates will enter into service as lead chloride. Then the chloride is released as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have taken place by now. If the odor of chlorine has gone and the batteries still work successfully, they will continue working. That is all there is to it. Rather use cleansed water - in an emergency situation, tap water. Hey there How much water for dissolving 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have actually a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not conserve more energy.
tanks Hey, did you men ever heard of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (clearly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the stage of explore it. I'm quite sure it's not a placebo, measured with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery appears to charge a lot cooler (depending upon concentration of it in each cell).
Just believed it fascinating and wan na show you guys. Afdhal - Yes. I made up various suspensions based on both conductive activated and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. Some of the mixes just settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle down at the bottom, the technique is to include it simply after the battery charged up until it gassing strongly, that way, it will stir the electrolyte, maintaining the suspension. Offering it an opportunity convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering the plates, increasing active area, minimizing internal impedance.
Yup, the drawback of it is that it just can be use as soon as, but hey, it's better than nothing, right? Afdhal - I attempted a variety of proprietary emulsifying agents to to keep the carbon suspended. Many did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid however one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - how to recondition any battery.
I had a different goal - how to recondition a 12 volt battery. Jorge- my experience with additives is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a complete waste of time & is even harmful to battery- the recommended level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the amount mentioned by the poster needs to have been a joke. To dissolve 1 teaspoon, put in a jar with cover, include 15 ml water, shake till liquified then pour into each cell.
Bevan - Have you tried salt sulfate? I as soon as make a little battery out of little 1cm lead plates immersed in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, salt sulfate, and copper sulfate. Obviously it gets weaker when other than HSO4 being utilized, however the result is: * HSO4 being the greatest, slowest to charge, likewise, the plates seems to be eroded quite quickly. * MgSO4 the look of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates in complete charge-discharge cycle is reduced. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, but also the weakest. * CuSO4 triggers the negative plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I wonder if NaSO4 would implies much faster charging in genuine battery Now, the only sulfate I miss would be cadmium sulfate, I can't discover cheap source of it yet. For this reason the carbon-additive experiment. All - I likewise attempted utilizing pencil 'lead' as my carbon for negative electrode (high frequency battery reconditioning). It has the greatest brief peak discharge current.