You might like to share the name of the battery, type and look for an identification number, anything to assist determine it. Then we might try to speak to the manufacturer, discover exactly what sort of innovation. Not all batteries are the very same. You did not give details of the kind of water you used.
I would think your battery has lost the majority of the active product from its plates. Charging at tens of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have actually leaded through. A shorted cell. Try inspecting the acid SG. Automobile batteries like to be charged at just a number of amps, for a few days after being diminished.
( If you think in fairies, try some type of renewal.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Uncertain the precise design, I will attempt to get the identifiers Mond when I eliminate it from the car. The battery charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is utilized for drip charging, it does control the present output to the requirements of the battery.
I believe it to be an extremely soft water treated with fluoride. Actually you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I've learnt that the Autocraft batteries are offered at Advance Vehicle Parts as their brand. They presently offer a Gold and Silver variation no Titanium.
I have actually now read that various manufacturers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Automobile Parts since no one mfg can produce adequate to supply them - how to recondition a dead car battery. However that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern US area. Johnson Controls should have it's name on the battery in concern. Also I discovered they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't revive the battery I might make a task out of neutralizing the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and design of it. Craig - This is specifically why we are talking about batteries. I looked at the link to the water report. Regrettably the report is not a true report on the chemical composition of the water, more of a PR workout on lead, etc.
What I would have an interest in is to understand what the alloy is in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to inform by methods of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is relatively fragile. Lead-calcium tends to be more malleable. The unfavorable grids are bound to be lead-calcium (how to restore a car battery).
Count the variety of times you bend and correct the alignment of prior to it snaps. I have actually done this myself often times. Antimony stops working well prior to calcium. The difference has to do with three times. If the manufacturer used diamond expanded lead sheet, all bets are off. But I would be extremely shocked. The separators are really crucial elements.
You may like to ascertain if the separators are adhering to the negatives, as if lead worked its way into the pores from the negatives. That signifies overcharging. The condition of the positives is seriously crucial (recondition battery guide). I believe you will discover the grids corroded away in places and active product has actually fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has actually been detached for a very long time. A sign of grid corrosion. I doubt you will find more than an unimportant quantity of sulfate. I reside in haiti and everyone here has batteries and inverters in our houses. i just found out that they are using Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to correct this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The reaction in the battery is two-fold. A few of the lead in the plates will go into service as lead chloride. Then the chloride is released as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have actually taken place by now. If the smell of chlorine has actually gone and the batteries still work effectively, they will continue working. That is all there is to it. Rather use cleansed water - in an emergency, faucet water. Hello Just how much water for dissolving 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have actually a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not save more energy.
tanks Hey, did you men ever heard of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (obviously) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the stage of try out it. I'm rather sure it's not a placebo, measured with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery appears to charge a lot cooler (depending upon concentration of it in each cell).
Just thought it intriguing and wan na show you men. Afdhal - Yes. I comprised various suspensions based upon both conductive triggered and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. Some of the mixes simply settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle down at the bottom, the trick is to add it simply after the battery charged up till it gassing vigorously, that method, it will stir the electrolyte, preserving the suspension. Giving it a chance convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering up the plates, increasing active area, lowering internal impedance.
Yup, the downside of it is that it only can be use as soon as, however hey, it's better than nothing, right? Afdhal - I tried a number of proprietary emulsifying representatives to to keep the carbon suspended. The majority of did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid however one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - how to recondition a dead car battery.
I had a various objective - reconditioning car battery. Jorge- my experience with additives is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a complete waste of time & is even harmful to battery- the suggested level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the quantity mentioned by the poster needs to have been a joke. To liquify 1 teaspoon, put in a container with cover, include 15 ml water, shake till dissolved then pour into each cell.
Bevan - Have you attempted sodium sulfate? I once make a small battery out of little 1cm lead plates immersed in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, sodium sulfate, and copper sulfate. Of course it gets weaker when aside from HSO4 being used, but the result is: * HSO4 being the greatest, slowest to charge, also, the plates seems to be deteriorated quite fast. * MgSO4 the look of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates in complete charge-discharge cycle is lowered. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, however likewise the weakest. * CuSO4 causes the negative plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I question if NaSO4 would indicates faster charging in genuine battery Now, the only sulfate I miss out on would be cadmium sulfate, I can't find low-cost source of it yet. Thus the carbon-additive experiment. All - I likewise tried using pencil 'lead' as my carbon for negative electrode (what is in battery reconditioning solution). It has the highest short peak discharge present.