You may like to share the name of the battery, type and look for a serial number, anything to assist recognize it. Then we could attempt to talk to the producer, learn precisely what sort of innovation. Not all batteries are the same. You did not offer details of the kind of water you utilized.
I would guess your battery has actually lost the majority of the active material from its plates. Charging at 10s of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have actually leaded through. A shorted cell. Try checking the acid SG. Automobile batteries like to be charged at just a number of amps, for a few days after being run down.
( If you think in fairies, attempt some sort of renewal.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Uncertain the exact design, I will attempt to get the identifiers Mond when I eliminate it from the automobile. The charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is utilized for drip charging, it does control the existing output to the needs of the battery.
I believe it to be a really soft water treated with fluoride. In fact you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I have actually learnt that the Autocraft batteries are cost Advance Car Parts as their brand name. They presently offer a Gold and Silver variation no Titanium.
I have actually now read that numerous makers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Vehicle Components due to the fact that nobody mfg can produce adequate to provide them - what is battery reconditioning. However that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern US area. Johnson Controls ought to have it's name on the battery in concern. Also I discovered out they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't revive the battery I might make a project out of neutralizing the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and style of it. Craig - This is specifically why we are discussing batteries. I looked at the link to the water report. Sadly the report is not a true report on the chemical composition of the water, more of a PR workout on lead, and so on.
What I would be interested in is to understand what the alloy remains in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to inform by means of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is fairly fragile. Lead-calcium tends to be more malleable. The negative grids are bound to be lead-calcium (battery recondition).
Count the variety of times you flex and straighten before it snaps. I have actually done this myself many times. Antimony fails well before calcium. The difference has to do with 3 times. If the producer used diamond broadened lead sheet, all bets are off. However I would be really shocked. The separators are extremely essential elements.
You might like to determine if the separators are sticking to the negatives, as if lead worked its method into the pores from the negatives. That suggests overcharging. The condition of the positives is critically crucial (how do you recondition a dead battery). I think you will find the grids corroded away in locations and active material has actually fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has actually been detached for a long time. A sign of grid deterioration. I question you will discover more than an insignificant quantity of sulfate. I reside in haiti and everyone here has batteries and inverters in our houses. i just learnt that they are using Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to fix this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The response in the battery is two-fold. Some of the lead in the plates will go into option as lead chloride. Then the chloride is produced as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have actually happened by now. If the odor of chlorine has actually gone and the batteries still work effectively, they will carry on working. That is all there is to it. Rather utilize purified water - in an emergency situation, tap water. Hello Just how much water for dissolving 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not save more energy.
tanks Hey, did you men ever become aware of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (clearly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the stage of try out it. I'm quite sure it's not a placebo, determined with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery seems to charge a lot cooler (depending on concentration of it in each cell).
Simply thought it intriguing and wan na show you men. Afdhal - Yes. I made up various suspensions based upon both conductive activated and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. Some of the mixes just settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle at the bottom, the technique is to include it simply after the battery charged up until it gassing intensely, that method, it will stir the electrolyte, keeping the suspension. Giving it a possibility convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering the plates, increasing active area, reducing internal impedance.
Yup, the drawback of it is that it only can be use once, but hey, it's better than nothing, right? Afdhal - I tried a number of exclusive emulsifying representatives to to keep the carbon suspended. Many did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid but one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - how do you recondition a car battery.
I had a various objective - recondition battery guide. Jorge- my experience with ingredients is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a total wild-goose chase & is even hazardous to battery- the recommended level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the amount stated by the poster needs to have been a joke. To liquify 1 teaspoon, put in a container with lid, include 15 ml water, shake till dissolved then pour into each cell.
Bevan - Have you tried sodium sulfate? I when make a small battery out of little 1cm lead plates submerged in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, salt sulfate, and copper sulfate. Of course it gets weaker when besides HSO4 being used, but the result is: * HSO4 being the greatest, slowest to charge, likewise, the plates appears to be eroded rather quickly. * MgSO4 the look of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates completely charge-discharge cycle is reduced. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, however also the weakest. * CuSO4 causes the unfavorable plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I wonder if NaSO4 would indicates much faster charging in genuine battery Now, the only sulfate I miss out on would be cadmium sulfate, I can't discover inexpensive source of it yet. Thus the carbon-additive experiment. All - I also tried utilizing pencil 'lead' as my carbon for negative electrode (how to recondition a car battery). It has the highest short peak discharge existing.