You may like to share the name of the battery, type and search for a serial number, anything to help recognize it. Then we could attempt to talk with the producer, discover exactly what type of technology. Not all batteries are the same. You did not offer details of the type of water you used.
I would think your battery has lost the majority of the active product from its plates. Charging at tens of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have actually leaded through. A shorted cell. Try examining the acid SG. Vehicle batteries like to be charged at just a couple of amps, for a few days after being diminished.
( If you think in fairies, try some kind of renewal.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Unsure the exact design, I will try to get the identifiers Mond when I remove it from the automobile. The charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is utilized for trickle charging, it does manage the present output to the needs of the battery.
I believe it to be an extremely soft water treated with fluoride. Really you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I have actually found out that the Autocraft batteries are cost Advance Automobile Components as their brand. They currently sell a Gold and Silver variation no Titanium.
I have actually now read that different producers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Automobile Parts because nobody mfg can produce sufficient to supply them - how do you recondition a dead car battery. But that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern US area. Johnson Controls should have it's name on the battery in question. Also I learnt they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't revive the battery I may make a project out of neutralizing the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and style of it. Craig - This is precisely why we are discussing batteries. I looked at the link to the water report. Sadly the report is not a real report on the chemical composition of the water, more of a PR exercise on lead, and so on.
What I would have an interest in is to understand what the alloy is in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to tell by means of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is fairly brittle. Lead-calcium tends to be more malleable. The unfavorable grids are bound to be lead-calcium (recondition 12 volt battery).
Count the number of times you bend and straighten prior to it snaps. I have actually done this myself often times. Antimony fails well before calcium. The distinction is about 3 times. If the maker used diamond expanded lead sheet, all bets are off. But I would be extremely shocked. The separators are very crucial elements.
You may like to establish if the separators are sticking to the negatives, as if lead worked its way into the pores from the negatives. That is a sign of overcharging. The condition of the positives is critically important (how to recondition a wore out battery). I believe you will find the grids rusted away in places and active material has fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has been detached for a long period of time. An indication of grid corrosion. I doubt you will find more than an insignificant quantity of sulfate. I live in haiti and everyone here has batteries and inverters in our houses. i simply found out that they are utilizing Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to correct this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The response in the battery is two-fold. A few of the lead in the plates will go into option as lead chloride. Then the chloride is offered off as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have actually happened by now. If the smell of chlorine has gone and the batteries still work efficiently, they will carry on working. That is all there is to it. Rather utilize purified water - in an emergency, faucet water. Hey there Just how much water for liquifying 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not save more energy.
tanks Hey, did you men ever become aware of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (obviously) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the phase of explore it. I'm rather sure it's not a placebo, determined with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery appears to charge a lot cooler (depending on concentration of it in each cell).
Just thought it intriguing and wan na show you men. Afdhal - Yes. I made up different suspensions based upon both conductive triggered and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. A few of the mixtures simply settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle down at the bottom, the technique is to add it simply after the battery charged up till it gassing strongly, that method, it will stir the electrolyte, keeping the suspension. Giving it a chance convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, concealing the plates, increasing active area, reducing internal impedance.
Yup, the drawback of it is that it only can be usage as soon as, however hey, it's better than absolutely nothing, right? Afdhal - I attempted a variety of proprietary emulsifying agents to to keep the carbon suspended. The majority of did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid however one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - 12 volt battery reconditioning.
I had a different objective - battery recondition. Jorge- my experience with additives is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a total wild-goose chase & is even harmful to battery- the recommended level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the quantity stated by the poster needs to have been a joke. To dissolve 1 teaspoon, put in a container with cover, include 15 ml water, shake till liquified then pour into each cell.
Bevan - Have you tried sodium sulfate? I once make a small battery out of small 1cm lead plates submerged in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, salt sulfate, and copper sulfate. Obviously it gets weaker when aside from HSO4 being utilized, however the outcome is: * HSO4 being the greatest, slowest to charge, also, the plates appears to be worn down rather fast. * MgSO4 the look of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates in complete charge-discharge cycle is decreased. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, however also the weakest. * CuSO4 triggers the negative plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I wonder if NaSO4 would suggests much faster charging in genuine battery Now, the only sulfate I miss out on would be cadmium sulfate, I can't find inexpensive source of it yet. For this reason the carbon-additive experiment. All - I also attempted using pencil 'lead' as my carbon for unfavorable electrode (how to recondition a battery). It has the greatest brief peak discharge current.