You may like to share the name of the battery, type and search for a serial number, anything to assist determine it. Then we could attempt to talk with the maker, learn exactly what type of technology. Not all batteries are the very same. You did not provide details of the kind of water you used.
I would think your battery has lost many of the active material from its plates. Charging at 10s of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have actually leaded through. A shorted cell. Attempt checking the acid SG. Auto batteries like to be charged at simply a couple of amps, for a few days after being diminished.
( If you think in fairies, attempt some sort of restoration.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Not exactly sure the specific design, I will try to get the identifiers Mond when I remove it from the automobile. The battery charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is utilized for trickle charging, it does control the current output to the requirements of the battery.
I think it to be a very soft water treated with fluoride. Actually you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I've discovered out that the Autocraft batteries are offered at Advance Vehicle Parts as their brand. They presently sell a Gold and Silver variation no Titanium.
I have actually now read that different producers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Vehicle Parts due to the fact that no one mfg can produce sufficient to provide them - how to recondition a dead battery. But that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern United States area. Johnson Controls ought to have it's name on the battery in concern. Likewise I learnt they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't revive the battery I might make a task out of reducing the effects of the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and style of it. Craig - This is specifically why we are talking about batteries. I looked at the link to the water report. Sadly the report is not a true report on the chemical composition of the water, more of a PR exercise on lead, etc.
What I would be interested in is to understand what the alloy remains in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to inform by methods of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is relatively fragile. Lead-calcium tends to be more flexible. The unfavorable grids are bound to be lead-calcium (how to recondition an old battery).
Count the number of times you bend and straighten before it snaps. I have actually done this myself lots of times. Antimony fails well before calcium. The distinction is about three times. If the producer used diamond expanded lead sheet, all bets are off. However I would be extremely stunned. The separators are very essential components.
You may like to establish if the separators are adhering to the negatives, as if lead worked its method into the pores from the negatives. That suggests overcharging. The condition of the positives is critically crucial (reconditioning a battery). I suspect you will discover the grids corroded away in locations and active product has fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has actually been disconnected for a long time. An indication of grid rust. I question you will find more than an irrelevant quantity of sulfate. I live in haiti and everybody here has batteries and inverters in our homes. i just found out that they are using Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to remedy this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The response in the battery is two-fold. A few of the lead in the plates will enter into option as lead chloride. Then the chloride is given off as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have actually occurred by now. If the odor of chlorine has gone and the batteries still work successfully, they will continue working. That is all there is to it. Rather use purified water - in an emergency situation, tap water. Hello Just how much water for dissolving 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have actually a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not save more energy.
tanks Hey, did you guys ever become aware of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (obviously) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the phase of explore it. I'm quite sure it's not a placebo, measured with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery seems to charge a lot cooler (depending on concentration of it in each cell).
Just thought it interesting and wan na show you people. Afdhal - Yes. I comprised various suspensions based on both conductive triggered and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. Some of the mixes simply settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does calm down at the bottom, the technique is to include it simply after the battery charged up till it gassing strongly, that method, it will stir the electrolyte, preserving the suspension. Offering it a possibility convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, concealing the plates, increasing active area, lowering internal impedance.
Yup, the downside of it is that it only can be use when, but hey, it's better than absolutely nothing, right? Afdhal - I attempted a variety of proprietary emulsifying agents to to keep the carbon suspended. The majority of did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid however one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - how to recondition a dead battery.
I had a various objective - battery reconditioning equipment. Jorge- my experience with ingredients is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a complete waste of time & is even hazardous to battery- the suggested level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the quantity mentioned by the poster needs to have been a joke. To dissolve 1 teaspoon, put in a container with cover, add 15 ml water, shake till dissolved then put into each cell.
Bevan - Have you tried sodium sulfate? I as soon as make a small battery out of small 1cm lead plates submerged in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, salt sulfate, and copper sulfate. Of course it gets weaker when other than HSO4 being used, however the outcome is: * HSO4 being the strongest, slowest to charge, also, the plates appears to be eroded quite quick. * MgSO4 the appearance of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates completely charge-discharge cycle is decreased. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, however also the weakest. * CuSO4 causes the unfavorable plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I wonder if NaSO4 would suggests much faster charging in genuine battery Now, the only sulfate I miss would be cadmium sulfate, I can't find cheap source of it yet. Thus the carbon-additive experiment. All - I also tried using pencil 'lead' as my carbon for unfavorable electrode (recondition old battery). It has the highest short peak discharge current.