You may like to share the name of the battery, type and try to find an identification number, anything to assist recognize it. Then we could try to speak with the producer, learn precisely what type of technology. Not all batteries are the same. You did not provide information of the type of water you utilized.
I would guess your battery has actually lost the majority of the active material from its plates. Charging at tens of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have actually leaded through. A shorted cell. Attempt checking the acid SG. Car batteries like to be charged at simply a couple of amps, for a few days after being run down.
( If you believe in fairies, attempt some sort of rejuvenation.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Not sure the precise model, I will attempt to get the identifiers Mond when I remove it from the cars and truck. The charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is utilized for drip charging, it does manage the current output to the requirements of the battery.
I think it to be an extremely soft water treated with fluoride. In fact you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I have actually discovered that the Autocraft batteries are cost Advance Automobile Parts as their brand. They currently sell a Gold and Silver version no Titanium.
I have actually now check out that different manufacturers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Car Components since nobody mfg can produce sufficient to provide them - recondition a battery. But that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern United States area. Johnson Controls must have it's name on the battery in concern. Likewise I learnt they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't restore the battery I might make a project out of reducing the effects of the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and style of it. Craig - This is exactly why we are going over batteries. I took a look at the link to the water report. Unfortunately the report is not a true report on the chemical structure of the water, more of a PR exercise on lead, etc.
What I would have an interest in is to understand what the alloy is in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to tell by methods of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is relatively fragile. Lead-calcium tends to be more malleable. The negative grids are bound to be lead-calcium (recondition a car battery).
Count the variety of times you bend and correct the alignment of before it snaps. I have actually done this myself sometimes. Antimony stops working well prior to calcium. The difference is about 3 times. If the producer used diamond expanded lead sheet, all bets are off. But I would be extremely stunned. The separators are really crucial elements.
You may like to determine if the separators are adhering to the negatives, as if lead worked its method into the pores from the negatives. That is a sign of overcharging. The condition of the positives is seriously important (how do you recondition a dead battery). I suspect you will find the grids corroded away in places and active material has fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has been detached for a long period of time. A sign of grid corrosion. I doubt you will discover more than an unimportant amount of sulfate. I live in haiti and everyone here has batteries and inverters in our houses. i just discovered out that they are utilizing Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to remedy this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The response in the battery is two-fold. A few of the lead in the plates will enter into option as lead chloride. Then the chloride is provided off as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have occurred by now. If the smell of chlorine has gone and the batteries still work efficiently, they will carry on working. That is all there is to it. Rather use purified water - in an emergency, tap water. Hello How much water for dissolving 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not conserve more energy.
tanks Hey, did you people ever heard of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (clearly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the phase of experimenting with it. I'm rather sure it's not a placebo, measured with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery seems to charge a lot cooler (depending upon concentration of it in each cell).
Just believed it fascinating and wan na share with you men. Afdhal - Yes. I made up various suspensions based on both conductive triggered and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. A few of the mixtures simply settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle down at the bottom, the technique is to include it just after the battery charged up until it gassing strongly, that way, it will stir the electrolyte, preserving the suspension. Giving it a possibility convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering the plates, increasing active surface area, minimizing internal impedance.
Yup, the drawback of it is that it only can be use when, but hey, it's much better than nothing, right? Afdhal - I tried a variety of proprietary emulsifying representatives to to keep the carbon suspended. Most did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid however one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - how to recondition a battery.
I had a different goal - recondition your old battery. Jorge- my experience with additives is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a total waste of time & is even harmful to battery- the advised level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the quantity stated by the poster needs to have been a joke. To liquify 1 teaspoon, put in a container with cover, include 15 ml water, shake till dissolved then put into each cell.
Bevan - Have you tried sodium sulfate? I once make a small battery out of small 1cm lead plates immersed in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, salt sulfate, and copper sulfate. Obviously it gets weaker when other than HSO4 being utilized, however the result is: * HSO4 being the greatest, slowest to charge, also, the plates appears to be worn down rather quickly. * MgSO4 the appearance of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates in full charge-discharge cycle is reduced. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, however also the weakest. * CuSO4 triggers the unfavorable plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I wonder if NaSO4 would implies faster charging in genuine battery Now, the only sulfate I miss out on would be cadmium sulfate, I can't find cheap source of it yet. Thus the carbon-additive experiment. All - I likewise tried using pencil 'lead' as my carbon for negative electrode (how to recondition a dead battery). It has the highest brief peak discharge current.