You may like to share the name of the battery, type and try to find a serial number, anything to help recognize it. Then we might try to talk with the maker, discover exactly what type of technology. Not all batteries are the same. You did not provide information of the type of water you used.
I would think your battery has actually lost many of the active product from its plates. Charging at 10s of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have actually leaded through. A shorted cell. Try inspecting the acid SG. Auto batteries like to be charged at just a number of amps, for a few days after being diminished.
( If you think in fairies, try some kind of renewal.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Not exactly sure the specific model, I will try to get the identifiers Mond when I remove it from the automobile. The charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is utilized for trickle charging, it does control the existing output to the needs of the battery.
I think it to be a really soft water treated with fluoride. Actually you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I have actually discovered out that the Autocraft batteries are cost Advance Auto Components as their brand. They currently sell a Gold and Silver version no Titanium.
I've now read that various producers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Car Components since nobody mfg can produce adequate to supply them - recondition old battery. However that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern United States region. Johnson Controls must have it's name on the battery in question. Also I discovered they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't revive the battery I might make a task out of reducing the effects of the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and style of it. Craig - This is precisely why we are going over batteries. I took a look at the link to the water report. Regrettably the report is not a true report on the chemical structure of the water, more of a PR workout on lead, etc.
What I would have an interest in is to know what the alloy is in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to tell by methods of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is fairly breakable. Lead-calcium tends to be more flexible. The negative grids are bound to be lead-calcium (do i need to charge car battery after battery recondition).
Count the variety of times you bend and correct the alignment of before it snaps. I have actually done this myself lot of times. Antimony fails well prior to calcium. The distinction has to do with 3 times. If the manufacturer used diamond broadened lead sheet, all bets are off. However I would be very shocked. The separators are extremely important parts.
You might like to ascertain if the separators are sticking to the negatives, as if lead worked its way into the pores from the negatives. That signifies overcharging. The condition of the positives is critically essential (how to recondition a wore out battery). I believe you will find the grids rusted away in places and active product has actually fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has been disconnected for a long period of time. An indication of grid rust. I doubt you will find more than an unimportant amount of sulfate. I live in haiti and everyone here has batteries and inverters in our homes. i just learnt that they are utilizing Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to remedy this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The reaction in the battery is two-fold. Some of the lead in the plates will go into service as lead chloride. Then the chloride is emitted as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have occurred by now. If the smell of chlorine has gone and the batteries still work effectively, they will bring on working. That is all there is to it. Rather utilize cleansed water - in an emergency, tap water. Hey there How much water for liquifying 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have actually a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not save more energy.
tanks Hey, did you guys ever become aware of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (clearly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the phase of explore it. I'm rather sure it's not a placebo, measured with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery seems to charge a lot cooler (depending on concentration of it in each cell).
Simply believed it intriguing and wan na share with you men. Afdhal - Yes. I made up various suspensions based upon both conductive triggered and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. A few of the mixtures simply settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle down at the bottom, the trick is to include it simply after the battery charged up until it gassing intensely, that way, it will stir the electrolyte, preserving the suspension. Providing it a possibility convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering the plates, increasing active area, minimizing internal impedance.
Yup, the downside of it is that it just can be usage once, however hey, it's much better than nothing, right? Afdhal - I attempted a number of exclusive emulsifying agents to to keep the carbon suspended. Many did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid however one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - materials needed to recondition car battery.
I had a different goal - do i need to charge car battery after battery recondition. Jorge- my experience with ingredients is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a complete waste of time & is even hazardous to battery- the suggested level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the amount specified by the poster should have been a joke. To liquify 1 teaspoon, put in a jar with lid, add 15 ml water, shake till dissolved then put into each cell.
Bevan - Have you attempted salt sulfate? I as soon as make a little battery out of little 1cm lead plates immersed in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, sodium sulfate, and copper sulfate. Obviously it gets weaker when other than HSO4 being utilized, however the outcome is: * HSO4 being the strongest, slowest to charge, also, the plates seems to be eroded rather quick. * MgSO4 the appearance of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates completely charge-discharge cycle is decreased. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, however likewise the weakest. * CuSO4 triggers the unfavorable plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I wonder if NaSO4 would indicates faster charging in genuine battery Now, the only sulfate I miss would be cadmium sulfate, I can't find inexpensive source of it yet. For this reason the carbon-additive experiment. All - I also attempted using pencil 'lead' as my carbon for unfavorable electrode (how do you recondition a dead battery). It has the greatest short peak discharge present.