You may like to share the name of the battery, type and look for a serial number, anything to assist recognize it. Then we could try to talk with the manufacturer, discover out exactly what kind of technology. Not all batteries are the exact same. You did not provide information of the kind of water you utilized.
I would think your battery has actually lost most of the active product from its plates. Charging at 10s of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have leaded through. A shorted cell. Try inspecting the acid SG. Automobile batteries like to be charged at simply a number of amps, for a few days after being diminished.
( If you believe in fairies, try some sort of restoration.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Not exactly sure the precise design, I will try to get the identifiers Mond when I eliminate it from the cars and truck. The charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is utilized for drip charging, it does control the present output to the requirements of the battery.
I believe it to be an extremely soft water treated with fluoride. Actually you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I have actually learnt that the Autocraft batteries are offered at Advance Auto Components as their brand. They currently sell a Gold and Silver variation no Titanium.
I have actually now check out that different makers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Auto Components because nobody mfg can produce adequate to provide them - battery recondition. However that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern US region. Johnson Controls ought to have it's name on the battery in concern. Likewise I learnt they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't revive the battery I may make a task out of neutralizing the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and design of it. Craig - This is precisely why we are going over batteries. I looked at the link to the water report. Sadly the report is not a true report on the chemical composition of the water, more of a PR exercise on lead, and so on.
What I would have an interest in is to know what the alloy remains in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to tell by ways of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is relatively fragile. Lead-calcium tends to be more flexible. The negative grids are bound to be lead-calcium (materials needed to recondition car battery).
Count the number of times you bend and straighten prior to it snaps. I have done this myself often times. Antimony fails well prior to calcium. The distinction is about three times. If the manufacturer used diamond broadened lead sheet, all bets are off. However I would be really surprised. The separators are really important parts.
You might like to determine if the separators are adhering to the negatives, as if lead worked its way into the pores from the negatives. That suggests overcharging. The condition of the positives is critically crucial (how to restore a dead car battery). I think you will discover the grids corroded away in places and active product has fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has actually been detached for a long period of time. An indication of grid rust. I question you will find more than an irrelevant quantity of sulfate. I reside in haiti and everybody here has batteries and inverters in our homes. i just learnt that they are utilizing Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to remedy this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The response in the battery is two-fold. A few of the lead in the plates will go into service as lead chloride. Then the chloride is emitted as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have actually occurred by now. If the odor of chlorine has gone and the batteries still work effectively, they will bring on working. That is all there is to it. Rather utilize purified water - in an emergency, faucet water. Hello Just how much water for liquifying 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not conserve more energy.
tanks Hey, did you people ever heard of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (clearly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the phase of try out it. I'm rather sure it's not a placebo, determined with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery seems to charge a lot cooler (depending on concentration of it in each cell).
Just thought it interesting and wan na show you men. Afdhal - Yes. I comprised numerous suspensions based on both conductive activated and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. A few of the mixes just settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does calm down at the bottom, the technique is to add it simply after the battery charged up until it gassing vigorously, that way, it will stir the electrolyte, maintaining the suspension. Providing it an opportunity convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering the plates, increasing active surface location, reducing internal impedance.
Yup, the drawback of it is that it just can be usage once, but hey, it's much better than nothing, right? Afdhal - I attempted a variety of exclusive emulsifying agents to to keep the carbon suspended. The majority of did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid however one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - recondition battery guide.
I had a various objective - how do you recondition a battery. Jorge- my experience with ingredients is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a total wild-goose chase & is even hazardous to battery- the suggested level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the amount mentioned by the poster needs to have been a joke. To dissolve 1 teaspoon, put in a container with lid, include 15 ml water, shake till liquified then pour into each cell.
Bevan - Have you attempted salt sulfate? I once make a small battery out of small 1cm lead plates immersed in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, sodium sulfate, and copper sulfate. Of course it gets weaker when other than HSO4 being used, but the outcome is: * HSO4 being the greatest, slowest to charge, likewise, the plates appears to be deteriorated quite quick. * MgSO4 the look of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates completely charge-discharge cycle is lowered. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, but likewise the weakest. * CuSO4 triggers the negative plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I wonder if NaSO4 would indicates faster charging in real battery Now, the only sulfate I miss out on would be cadmium sulfate, I can't find cheap source of it yet. Hence the carbon-additive experiment. All - I likewise tried using pencil 'lead' as my carbon for unfavorable electrode (do i need to charge car battery after battery recondition). It has the greatest short peak discharge current.