You may like to share the name of the battery, type and look for an identification number, anything to assist determine it. Then we might try to speak to the producer, learn precisely what kind of innovation. Not all batteries are the same. You did not offer details of the type of water you used.
I would guess your battery has actually lost many of the active product from its plates. Charging at 10s of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have leaded through. A shorted cell. Attempt checking the acid SG. Vehicle batteries like to be charged at simply a number of amps, for a couple of days after being diminished.
( If you believe in fairies, try some sort of restoration.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Uncertain the specific model, I will try to get the identifiers Mond when I remove it from the automobile. The charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is used for drip charging, it does manage the current output to the requirements of the battery.
I believe it to be an extremely soft water treated with fluoride. In fact you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I have actually discovered out that the Autocraft batteries are sold at Advance Car Parts as their brand. They currently offer a Gold and Silver version no Titanium.
I have actually now read that numerous makers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Car Parts due to the fact that no one mfg can produce adequate to provide them - how do you recondition a battery. But that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern United States area. Johnson Controls need to have it's name on the battery in question. Also I learnt they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't revive the battery I may make a project out of reducing the effects of the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and design of it. Craig - This is specifically why we are going over batteries. I looked at the link to the water report. Sadly the report is not a true report on the chemical structure of the water, more of a PR workout on lead, etc.
What I would be interested in is to know what the alloy remains in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to tell by means of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is reasonably brittle. Lead-calcium tends to be more malleable. The negative grids are bound to be lead-calcium (do i need to charge car battery after battery recondition).
Count the variety of times you bend and straighten before it snaps. I have actually done this myself many times. Antimony stops working well prior to calcium. The difference is about 3 times. If the producer utilized diamond expanded lead sheet, all bets are off. But I would be really surprised. The separators are really important parts.
You might like to ascertain if the separators are adhering to the negatives, as if lead worked its method into the pores from the negatives. That is an indication of overcharging. The condition of the positives is critically essential (how to reconditioning car battery). I think you will find the grids corroded away in locations and active product has fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has actually been detached for a long time. A sign of grid deterioration. I doubt you will discover more than an unimportant quantity of sulfate. I live in haiti and everyone here has batteries and inverters in our homes. i just found out that they are utilizing Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to correct this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The response in the battery is two-fold. A few of the lead in the plates will enter into solution as lead chloride. Then the chloride is offered off as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have actually occurred by now. If the smell of chlorine has gone and the batteries still work effectively, they will carry on working. That is all there is to it. Rather use cleansed water - in an emergency, tap water. Hello Just how much water for dissolving 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not save more energy.
tanks Hey, did you men ever heard of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (clearly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the phase of exploring with it. I'm rather sure it's not a placebo, measured with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery seems to charge a lot cooler (depending on concentration of it in each cell).
Simply thought it fascinating and wan na share with you people. Afdhal - Yes. I comprised various suspensions based on both conductive activated and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. Some of the mixtures just settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does calm down at the bottom, the technique is to add it just after the battery charged up till it gassing intensely, that way, it will stir the electrolyte, preserving the suspension. Offering it an opportunity convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering the plates, increasing active surface area, reducing internal impedance.
Yup, the disadvantage of it is that it just can be usage once, but hey, it's better than nothing, right? Afdhal - I attempted a variety of proprietary emulsifying agents to to keep the carbon suspended. The majority of did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid but one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - battery recondition.
I had a different objective - reconditioning a 12 volt truck battery. Jorge- my experience with ingredients is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a complete waste of time & is even harmful to battery- the suggested level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the amount specified by the poster must have been a joke. To dissolve 1 teaspoon, put in a container with lid, include 15 ml water, shake till liquified then pour into each cell.
Bevan - Have you tried sodium sulfate? I when make a little battery out of small 1cm lead plates submerged in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, sodium sulfate, and copper sulfate. Obviously it gets weaker when aside from HSO4 being used, but the result is: * HSO4 being the greatest, slowest to charge, likewise, the plates seems to be worn down rather quick. * MgSO4 the appearance of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates in full charge-discharge cycle is minimized. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, however likewise the weakest. * CuSO4 triggers the unfavorable plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I question if NaSO4 would implies faster charging in genuine battery Now, the only sulfate I miss would be cadmium sulfate, I can't find inexpensive source of it yet. For this reason the carbon-additive experiment. All - I likewise attempted utilizing pencil 'lead' as my carbon for negative electrode (how to recondition a 12v battery). It has the highest brief peak discharge existing.