You might like to share the name of the battery, type and search for a serial number, anything to help identify it. Then we might try to talk with the maker, discover exactly what kind of innovation. Not all batteries are the same. You did not offer details of the type of water you utilized.
I would think your battery has lost the majority of the active product from its plates. Charging at 10s of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have actually leaded through. A shorted cell. Try checking the acid SG. Automobile batteries like to be charged at just a number of amps, for a couple of days after being diminished.
( If you think in fairies, try some kind of renewal.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Unsure the specific model, I will try to get the identifiers Mond when I remove it from the cars and truck. The charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is utilized for drip charging, it does manage the current output to the needs of the battery.
I think it to be an extremely soft water treated with fluoride. Really you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I've discovered out that the Autocraft batteries are cost Advance Car Components as their brand. They currently offer a Gold and Silver version no Titanium.
I've now read that various makers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Car Components due to the fact that no one mfg can produce sufficient to supply them - recondition a car battery. However that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern United States region. Johnson Controls ought to have it's name on the battery in question. Likewise I discovered they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't revive the battery I may make a project out of neutralizing the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and style of it. Craig - This is precisely why we are talking about batteries. I looked at the link to the water report. Regrettably the report is not a real report on the chemical composition of the water, more of a PR exercise on lead, etc.
What I would have an interest in is to understand what the alloy remains in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to tell by methods of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is relatively breakable. Lead-calcium tends to be more flexible. The negative grids are bound to be lead-calcium (recondition battery).
Count the number of times you flex and straighten prior to it snaps. I have done this myself sometimes. Antimony fails well before calcium. The distinction is about 3 times. If the producer used diamond broadened lead sheet, all bets are off. But I would be very surprised. The separators are extremely important parts.
You might like to establish if the separators are sticking to the negatives, as if lead worked its way into the pores from the negatives. That suggests overcharging. The condition of the positives is critically important (recondition battery guide). I presume you will discover the grids rusted away in locations and active material has fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has actually been detached for a long period of time. An indication of grid corrosion. I doubt you will discover more than an irrelevant quantity of sulfate. I live in haiti and everyone here has batteries and inverters in our homes. i just learnt that they are utilizing Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to fix this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The reaction in the battery is two-fold. A few of the lead in the plates will go into solution as lead chloride. Then the chloride is released as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have taken place by now. If the smell of chlorine has actually gone and the batteries still work successfully, they will carry on working. That is all there is to it. Rather utilize cleansed water - in an emergency, tap water. Hey there How much water for liquifying 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not save more energy.
tanks Hey, did you guys ever become aware of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (undoubtedly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the phase of exploring with it. I'm quite sure it's not a placebo, determined with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery seems to charge a lot cooler (depending upon concentration of it in each cell).
Simply believed it intriguing and wan na show you people. Afdhal - Yes. I comprised numerous suspensions based on both conductive triggered and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. Some of the mixes simply settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle at the bottom, the technique is to add it simply after the battery charged up till it gassing strongly, that way, it will stir the electrolyte, keeping the suspension. Providing it a chance convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering the plates, increasing active surface area, minimizing internal impedance.
Yup, the downside of it is that it only can be use as soon as, however hey, it's better than absolutely nothing, right? Afdhal - I tried a variety of proprietary emulsifying representatives to to keep the carbon suspended. The majority of did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid however one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - how to reconditioning car battery.
I had a various goal - how do you recondition a battery. Jorge- my experience with additives is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a total waste of time & is even damaging to battery- the suggested level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the amount stated by the poster should have been a joke. To liquify 1 teaspoon, put in a jar with cover, add 15 ml water, shake till liquified then put into each cell.
Bevan - Have you tried salt sulfate? I as soon as make a little battery out of small 1cm lead plates submerged in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, sodium sulfate, and copper sulfate. Obviously it gets weaker when other than HSO4 being used, however the result is: * HSO4 being the greatest, slowest to charge, likewise, the plates appears to be deteriorated rather fast. * MgSO4 the look of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates in full charge-discharge cycle is minimized. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, however also the weakest. * CuSO4 causes the negative plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I question if NaSO4 would suggests faster charging in genuine battery Now, the only sulfate I miss out on would be cadmium sulfate, I can't discover low-cost source of it yet. Thus the carbon-additive experiment. All - I also tried utilizing pencil 'lead' as my carbon for negative electrode (reconditioning a 12 volt truck battery). It has the highest short peak discharge present.