You might like to share the name of the battery, type and search for a serial number, anything to help recognize it. Then we might try to talk with the maker, learn precisely what sort of innovation. Not all batteries are the exact same. You did not offer details of the kind of water you used.
I would guess your battery has actually lost the majority of the active product from its plates. Charging at tens of amps does this to a battery. Plus, the separators have actually leaded through. A shorted cell. Try examining the acid SG. Vehicle batteries like to be charged at just a couple of amps, for a few days after being diminished.
( If you believe in fairies, attempt some type of rejuvenation.) John, the battery is an Autocraft Titanium. Uncertain the precise design, I will attempt to get the identifiers Mond when I eliminate it from the cars and truck. The charger does have a lower 2amp setting which is used for drip charging, it does manage the existing output to the needs of the battery.
I think it to be a really soft water treated with fluoride. In fact you can get a sample analysis of this water here: http://www. townofclaytonnc.org/client_resources/water quality report - 2010. pdf. I've discovered out that the Autocraft batteries are cost Advance Automobile Components as their brand. They currently offer a Gold and Silver version no Titanium.
I have actually now check out that various makers make Autocraft batteries for Advance Automobile Parts due to the fact that nobody mfg can produce enough to provide them - 12 volt battery reconditioning. However that Johnson Controls makes them for the southern US region. Johnson Controls should have it's name on the battery in question. Likewise I discovered they make Diehard batteries for Sears.
If I can't revive the battery I may make a task out of neutralizing the acid and dissecting it to see the condition and style of it. Craig - This is precisely why we are discussing batteries. I looked at the link to the water report. Unfortunately the report is not a real report on the chemical composition of the water, more of a PR workout on lead, and so on.
What I would have an interest in is to understand what the alloy remains in the positives. My theory would be that it is lead-antimony. It is possible to inform by methods of a physical test. Lead-antimony grid metal is relatively breakable. Lead-calcium tends to be more malleable. The unfavorable grids are bound to be lead-calcium (how do you recondition a battery).
Count the number of times you flex and align before it snaps. I have done this myself often times. Antimony fails well before calcium. The distinction has to do with three times. If the producer utilized diamond expanded lead sheet, all bets are off. However I would be really surprised. The separators are really important parts.
You might like to establish if the separators are adhering to the negatives, as if lead worked its way into the pores from the negatives. That signifies overcharging. The condition of the positives is critically important (battery reconditioning equipment). I suspect you will discover the grids rusted away in places and active product has actually fallen out.
If there is any dark orange, that is called sludge and has been disconnected for a long time. An indication of grid rust. I doubt you will discover more than an irrelevant amount of sulfate. I reside in haiti and everybody here has batteries and inverters in our houses. i simply found out that they are utilizing Muriatic Acid to top up the batteries.
What can i do to remedy this? Ken - Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. The response in the battery is two-fold. Some of the lead in the plates will go into solution as lead chloride. Then the chloride is produced as chlorine at the positives and the lead plates out onto the negatives.
It will all have occurred by now. If the smell of chlorine has gone and the batteries still work successfully, they will carry on working. That is all there is to it. Rather utilize purified water - in an emergency situation, faucet water. Hey there Just how much water for liquifying 10 tablespoons of Epsom salt?I have a sealed battery with 3 years of 12 volts 70 amps, do not conserve more energy.
tanks Hey, did you people ever heard of carbon additive? It's a black liquid (clearly) with colloidal carbon suspension in it. I'm still in the stage of experimenting with it. I'm rather sure it's not a placebo, determined with an insulated K-thermocouple, the battery seems to charge a lot cooler (depending on concentration of it in each cell).
Just thought it interesting and wan na share with you people. Afdhal - Yes. I comprised numerous suspensions based on both conductive triggered and conductive graphite carbon powders and put these into transparent lead-acid test cells. A few of the mixtures just settled out, others covered the plates and made them pitch black.
John - Yup, it does settle down at the bottom, the technique is to add it just after the battery charged up until it gassing strongly, that method, it will stir the electrolyte, maintaining the suspension. Giving it a chance convecting through the plates. Let it gassing up for one night, letting it to do its work, covering the plates, increasing active surface area, reducing internal impedance.
Yup, the drawback of it is that it just can be use once, but hey, it's better than absolutely nothing, right? Afdhal - I tried a variety of proprietary emulsifying agents to to keep the carbon suspended. A lot of did not keep the carbon suspended in the acid but one worked so well, the carbon did not settle out for weeks - how to recondition a dead car battery.
I had a various goal - what is in battery reconditioning solution. Jorge- my experience with additives is that magnesium sulphate( Epsom Salts) is a total waste of time & is even damaging to battery- the recommended level of additive is 1 level teaspoon per cell- the amount stated by the poster needs to have been a joke. To dissolve 1 teaspoon, put in a jar with cover, include 15 ml water, shake till dissolved then put into each cell.
Bevan - Have you attempted salt sulfate? I as soon as make a little battery out of little 1cm lead plates immersed in hydrogen sulfate, magnesium sulfate, sodium sulfate, and copper sulfate. Naturally it gets weaker when other than HSO4 being utilized, but the result is: * HSO4 being the strongest, slowest to charge, likewise, the plates appears to be worn down quite quickly. * MgSO4 the appearance of while layer (lead sulfate?) on the plates completely charge-discharge cycle is reduced. * NaSO4 being the fastest to charge, but likewise the weakest. * CuSO4 causes the negative plate the covered in copper, and shorted out my cell.
I question if NaSO4 would suggests faster charging in real battery Now, the only sulfate I miss would be cadmium sulfate, I can't discover cheap source of it yet. For this reason the carbon-additive experiment. All - I likewise attempted using pencil 'lead' as my carbon for unfavorable electrode (how to reconditioning car battery). It has the greatest short peak discharge current.